I bought these a couple of weeks ago.
The first four I ran through a “test” cycle on my La Crosse charger and got around 700mAh.
The remaining eight I ran through the “refresh” cycle and got them up to around 780mAh.
So they all work, and they all showed over 1.3 volts. I’m going to run the first four through a refresh after I use them.
It remains to be seen how long they will hold a charge.
And I paid two bucks more, so thanks for that, Woot.
Anyone know if these are white top or black top?
I got these last time, they are not the Eneloop clones that Duracell used to make years ago (they are black top not white). They do work rather well however, I haven’t noticed much difference between these and my Eneloops, that being said I haven’t pushed them either.
Tbese are made in China. I think the relabeled Eneloops are long gone.
Is there a charger for these for sale somewhere? Moofi?
Will these work with the iGo Chargers from a few weeks back?
Go and pick up a smart charger, it’ll make these last a lot longer than just about any pack-in charger you’d get.
Any charger that works with AAA NiMH batteries will work.
I’ve got one of these, which is about the cheapest decent smart charger you can get.
There are a lot of advantages to getting a smart charger over one that just charges with a fixed current for a fixed amount of time. You can charge faster without risking overheating due to overcharging, you can charge odd numbers of batteries, you can revive batteries that have lost capacity, you can identify which battery is not working well and dragging the set down, and so on.
Seriously, Woot? I just bought some from Amazon a couple hours ago.
They are not the Japanese white top Duracells that are identical to first generation Eneloops. These are Chinese-made black tops that are identical to Rayovac LSDs. I have both and have not noticed a difference. They have similar capacities according to my LaCrosse, and lasts about the same in my remotes, weather forecasters and computer mouse. I do not know if their self-discharge rates are identical but I expect them to be very similar.
Get yourself an NiMH charger that charges each battery individually (as opposed to charging them in pairs). That’s important because batteries discharge differently, i.e. battery A may be 87% discharged while battery B is 72% discharged. If you’re required to charge them in pairs, then one will end up be under or overcharged.
It would also be good to buy a multifunctional charger like the LaCrosse or Maha. They have the ability to test as well as “refresh” overused batteries. I bought a brand new LaCrosse on eBay for about $20.
These are the “good” kind of rechargeables in that they’re of the newer NiMH chemistry type that holds its charge much better. Getting a charger that charges each battery individually is recommended, smart chargers are ideal, but you don’t need to get one; you can chuck these in pretty much any standard NiMH charger you have lying around.
Anyone know if these would be good in an insulin pump???
If these are the same model of AAA I bought years ago, then I am still using the same set in my work wireless headphones for going on 7 years now. I just set the headset on its charger every night. Never had them run out on me during a workday.
Since you charge your headset nightly, self-dishcharge is a non-issue so expensive Low Self-Discharge (LSD) batteries such as these and Eneloops are a waste of money. These are most useful for devices that you seldomly use and/or change the batteries, i.e. emergency flashlights, emergency radios, temperature sensors, clocks, etc. The first two devices are rarely used, while the latter two use so little electricity that you’d normally change the batteries only once a year. Normal NiMH batteries will lose its charge within a few months, regardless of whether it’s used, or how little electricity it uses. That’s where these LSD batteries shine. They act almost like alkaline batteries, which have negligible self-discharge.
Since you charge your headsets nightly, it never reaches the point of self-discharge (which takes a few months). Any normal cheap NiMH battery would do just fine. In fact, normal cheap NiMH batteries might do even better because they come in higher capacities which means longer run times. These LSD AAAs are only rated for 800mAh.
I wouldn’t chance it in crucial medical or monitoring devices. But if you really want to try them, ask the manufacturer. Some electronics are optimized to function in multiples of 1.5V, which is how much a normal alkaline battery holds. NiMH batteries are rated for 1.2V. In other words, you have 20% fewer volts with NiMH batteries. While most modern electronics can accommodate the lower voltage, some may not. I have an Olympus voice recorder that requires 1.5V and won’t work with NiMHs.
Even if your pump can use the lower voltage, the fact that it starts out fresh at 1.2V means that it will more quickly drop to an unusable voltage than a 1.5V alkaline. For example, let’s say that the pump needs a minimum of 1.0V to operate. Obviously, it’s generally faster to drop to 1.0V from 1.2V than 1.5V. In other words, you’ll be changing batteries more often.
ADDENDUM: In high drain devices, i.e. digital cameras, a 1.2V NiMH battery will actually last longer than a 1.5V alkaline. That’s because NiMH chemistry is better suited for brief moments of high drainage than alkaline. As far as I know, this doesn’t apply to insulin pumps which are probably low drain.
Thank you very much for this answer.I will have my friend check with the pump manufacturer. she goes thru batteries extremely rapidly and it’s expensive. Hopefully these will be compatible.
Depending on how often she changes batteries, it might be advantageous to use normal NiMH batteries as opposed to these more expensive LSD NiMHs. LSDs are only beneficial in devices where you rarely change batteries or use. Otherwise, they have two drawbacks: 1) They cost more than normal NiMHs; 2) They have lower capacities. These LSD AAAs, for example, only hold 800mAh. You can find 1350mAh NiMH AAAs on eBay costing less.That means 69% more capacity. One caveat: eBay sellers sometimes inflate their batteries’ true capacities.
PS - I should have added that in high drain devices, i.e. digital cameras, a 1.2V NiMH battery will last longer than a 1.5V alkaline. As far as I know, this doesn’t apply to insulin pumps which are probably low drain.
Really need AA