Powerline does itself no favors by neglecting to include whether it works across circuits.
I’ve been burned (figuratively) by purchasing powerline devices in the past, hoping to extend a wired signal to a remote part of the house.
Problem is, even small apartments have 2-3 circuits, and if the device can’t traverse them, it’s useless.
Some are, some aren’t, but none say, so all go unsold.
i got some of these as a last-ditch effort to extend wi-fi into the basement of an older all-brick house, not expecting much. HOLY GUACAMOLE it works - and, not only is it on a different circuit, it’s in the newly finished basement on a sub-panel from the rest of the house’s electrical panel. i literally didn’t lose a meg of my 100/mps internet connection. never thought it would work, but man did it ever. i’m buying another set to plug my tv into a wired connection and have another router on the other end of the house
I realized that this particular product is for wired connections only. Not wifi. Still in for one. Hope it works.
I’m assuming I can add a 4 port router switch to the receiving end of this device? I want to hardwire my Roku, Smart TV and Directv receiver. Is this possible?
Not QUITE right, but pretty close. The vast majority of residential electrical systems are divided into two “sides” (for simplicity’s sake). You can see each side in the breaker box - there are two columns of breakers, left and right.
A powerline adapter will work best on different circuits that are both on the same “side” (both on the left, or both on the right) of the breaker box as each side is connected by a common positive power conductor for all the breakers on that side. This way the signal from each adapter has a common path to both circuits, but not so much if the two circuits are on opposite sides of the box from each other.
Some powerline adapters also have issues with circuits that use GFI or GFCI outlets, so best to avoid them if possible.
Just something to consider when using these adapters.
Anyone considered that this is not very secure?
On WiFi you have encryption like WAP2 (even with Krack, its better than nothing).
Ethernet has no encrption because its supposed to be point-to-point. So scattering it over power lines means just about anybody can tap in.
Got an outside plug? That’s now an entry point into your home network.
Target is trying to out do Woot. It’s a good price on Woot, and if you include the free shipping from Target, a slightly better price there:https://www.target.com/p/netgear-powerline-1000-pl1000/-/A-50587960
I just purchased. I did a quick search to see if there was something as good for less out there. I found for 30% less another brand (TP Link) but it was only 200 Mbps, and didn’t have the extra outlet built in.
Yea, but no extra outlet, so I’ll take the woot one over the one at target.
I don’t know about this specific device, but I can’t imagine a reason why it wouldn’t work. All this device should be doing is converting the data on the ethernet device into a signal that can be passed over the electrical wires and interpreted by the device on the other end. Whether that information is packets from a single computer or multiple computers connected to a hub/switch shouldn’t matter. Furthermore, they seem to indicate you can connect multiple of these on the same electrical circuit, so I would say that further supports the argument that you can have lots of data going across the wires at once.
Yes. They act as Ethernet drops, so it’s better to think of them as hardware level devices, even though they’re powered.
Yes, you can. Don’t confuse “router” with “switch” though. You should only have 1 router in your entire network. You can have 1,000 switches.
Description says 2-pack, but I assume you need a MINIMUM of 2 units to work- 1 transmit and 1 receive. So is it 2 packages of 2 units, or 1 package with 2 units?
Along that line, are the units able to become either transmit or receive, or are they specific?
My end goal would be to set up a cable modem in my basement, plug this unit in there, then set up an individual wireless router on each floor of my house fed from the signal from these, so I think this technically should work, right?
The proper term is “phase” for each side of the board. If your devices are all on the same phase, they are technically all inter-connected electrically. (A lightning strike will confirm that’s why some of your things fry and some do not, based on which phase of the household current carried the lightning bolt to the ground.)
[sigh] you can only have 1 router on your network. if you have more than 1, DCHP must be disabled on all but 1 (unless you are doing something fancy with subnets). Your router should be connected to the modem by 1 ethernet cable.
This isn’t truly “wireless”, and the signal isn’t being “transformed” into something else as both ethernet cable and electrical wire are COPPER. Just saying. You’re basically converting your ethernet plug into an electrical one so you can utilize the copper wire inside your walls already, instead of wiring new ethernet.
Make sure the units are on the same phase electrically, else they won’t work.
I wouldn’t put these on the same phase as any heavy electrical appliance (ie. A/C) or one that generates electrical noise (i.e. the kitchen blender).
Actually, if you want an exceptional solution… go with wireless access points. Put one on the TOP floor, so the signal penetrates down through the floors. The “unifi” series from ubiquiti products are AWWWWWSOME. I have 2 on my property, and my home WiFi covers 3.5 ACRES of wooded property. so yeah… the unifi units rock.
This device does NO coverting of signal whatsoever. The ethernet cable is COPPER wire. Your household electrical lines are COPPER wire. COPPER = COPPER. Your network could care less if your naughty digital bits are traveling on ethernet or electrical lines as they are the SAME media. These things ONLY serve as adapters from ethernet port to standard electrical plug.
Conversion occurs if you go from copper to radio waves, but not copper to copper. This is not a magical conversion (collusion?) device.
And no, even without encrypting the signal, a cable connection is FAR more secure than WiFi. I think you’d spot your neighbor plugging one of these into your outside outlet and running a 100’ bright blue ethernet cord up to his bedroom window…
You need a wireless AP. Turn off the radio on your router (they all s*ck, even on the new/fancy MIMO routers).
Go get a unifi access point, from ubiquiti products. I have 2 in my house at opposite ends. COMPLETE coverage of 3.5 acres of wooded property. NO dead zones anywhere. And that’s with just 2 units @ roughly 70 apiece on that ‘BAY’ site.
Exactly. I use PowerLine adapters (not these but another NetGear model) to create an ethernet drop in my living room. I have a 5-port NetGear unmanaged switch plugged into the receiver there. Then my Tivo, BluRay, TV and Onkyo Receiver all connect via hard line. My Onkyo is also on WiFi. It works very well with a little switch. (Also, never, EVER use HUBS on your network if you can help it).
I’m not an electrical expert by any stretch, but having wired ethernet ports by hand before, and noting that ethernet wires have 8 discrete copper endpoints, and 8 is (last I checked) a greater number than 2, being the approximate(?) number of wires being passed around by 110v (if you leave out ground, anyway), I would have thought at least some signal conversion would need to be occurring in there somewhere.
Regardless, I use these in my house, on 2 separate circuits across 2 separate floors, to provide internet access to my main PC which is a PLEX server, and it seems to work great and experiences no bandwidth loss that I’ve been able to prove.
The common term is “leg”, each leg being fed by it’s own “hot bus bar” - but I wanted to keep it simple for the purposes of explanation. “Side” is easy for the uninitiated to understand - and easy for them to see when they open the cover and look at the breakers in their panel. Only use circuits on the same “side” of your panel - and don’t cross the streams, that would be bad! (with apologies to Bill Murray).
As for what powerline network adapters actually do you are partially correct that they don’t change the digital signal to something different then convert it back again. What they do is essentially change the frequency of the signal to one that won’t be interfered with by the 60Hz of common household electrical power (in the US, in our case). Electrical utility companies have been doing that for years with their newer Smart Meters, which are eliminating the jobs of meter readers.