2 Pack NETGEAR PowerLINE Outlet

Oh, I guess those 44 guage, ridiculously tiny wires are exactly the same as a couple of 12 guage wires? Why doesn’t the power company just use ethernet to bring power to your home? Why don’t electricians wire the house using ethernet instead of romex? LOL… There is some physics behind the transfer of power/signals along a metallic conductor, and it involves the surface area which is where all the signals (whether they be your internet porn, power to a light, or your Steel Magnolias soundtrack) actually move by electron displacement along the outermost layer of copper.

BUT, for the purposes of these magical transmogrifiers of the internet(s) into electricity we can reach by plugging in the collusionary receiver… the fact remains that you have a signal traveling along 8 tiny copper wires… then 2 bigger wires… then 8 tiny ones again. So your porn flows from modem to your upstairs bedroom, un-converted.

If you are remotely curious, I’d suggest a physics class to learn in more detail, including some cool formulas that explain all this magic.

I wish I had donald trump’s hands, because I can relate to wiring TINY ethernet jacks. I just put cat 6 and fiber all throughout my home. 32 ethernet keystone jacks to wire. And 32 terminal ends to wire. Small hands would have been… well, um, handy…

I was trying to keep it simple also, but not so simple that the curious wouldn’t bother to read and learn something lol. Maybe it’s because they’re all trying to put as many routers on the network as they can :wink:

You are correct about the freq mod, though I suppose literally everything is some frequency, so I don’t equate changing of frequency to changing of the data or signal, unless the state of matter changes (i.e. physical to non-physical in the case of ethernet to wifi, though technically the electrical impulses on the ethernet are the same as the impulses OTA… just at a different frequency). Ouch I think my hippocampus just exploded.

Either way, these devices are nice and they’ve come a long way.

It’s easy to be confused.

I’m going to correct myself… the common term “leg” is also “line” as most homes should have 2 lines and a neutral from the power company.

I’m going to adjust the idea of a “leg” however as it applies to the breaker box: In your breaker box, L1 goes to one side, and L2 to the other… SORT OF. Each “leg” supplies one PAIR of breakers across from each other.

So it is NOT a case of using just the left breakers, or the right. That is completely incorrect.

The term “leg” refers incorrectly to the “side” of the breaker box. But in reality, the L1 and L2 bus (in your main panel) run down the middle, in between the breakers. And they alternately supply every other row.

Since odd#'s are on the left, and even’s on the right, that means that breakers 1 and 2 are on the same PHASE/LEG/LINE. the next couple of breakers down, 3 and 4, are on a DIFFERENT phase/leg/line.

This pattern repeats, alternating phases every row of circuit breakers. (if you have a double-breaker, it is using BOTH phases/legs/lines).

From my experience, these devices CANNOT cross phases so if they are plugged into difference circuits which happen to be fed power from a row on the other phase as the first circuit… they won’t ever work. Trial and error is the only way to determine the phase in this case.

Say you have your transmitter plugged into an outlet using breaker #1. An outlet may not work (you find out it is supplied by breaker 3), while one on the other side will (powered by breaker 9) because… even if a different circuit… that circuit is powered on the same phase/line/leg (i.e. breaker ). Rows for breakers 3 and 5 are adjacent and thus on different phases. Electrically, they are isolated from one another and CANNOT “communicate”.

For my example, breakers 1+2, 5+6, 9+10, 13+14, 17+18 are on phase A, while 3+4, 7+8, 11+12, 15+16 are all on phase B. These devices will ONLY work if both are plugged into outlets using the same phase (regardless of circuit/breaker).

Well, I lied. The ONLY way to fix it and have everything in collusion is to use a “phase coupler” installed as a double breaker. This will bridge the 2 legs electrically so all your UPB and X10 and powerline devices work no matter what circuit/breaker/phase they are using. There are several model out there (leviton coupler repeater, or the simply automated phase coupler)

If you want to get petty over the word “converting” then fine, don’t call it converting, whatever - bottom line is you can’t take the raw signal from your ethernet cable and put it onto the copper wires in your home and have it work. You need some device to modify and filter that signal such that it can be transmitted across the wires in your home and deal with the “noise” generated by the power transmission.

FYI, its called the “Skin effect”, if anyone wants to learn more about it, but I’m not sure why you are bringing that into the discussion.
Fortunately there are a lot of people smarter than you or I that have figured out EXACTLY what needs to be done, so despite having taken the physics, electrical, and networking classes that touch on these topics, I’m happy to just sit back and let the magical electron gnomes do their thing.

So you’re saying this won’t work?

https://i.imgur.com/t338IJo.jpg

Or that it will, I just have to figure out how to do DHCP stuff. (which I’m sure I can, it just needs troubleshooting)

(Your reply edited for desperately-needed brevity!)

You are absolutely correct - I had forgotten that each left + right pair of breakers were on the same leg, as are alternating rows as you describe. Just goes to show how long its been since I installed one - the left and right hot bus bars serpentine to alternate rows in the back of the panel.

Therefore I will alter my advice - If you want to use a powerline adapter and you need to go between two different rooms on different circuits, try to make sure they are on the same leg of the breaker box. Follow this example when looking inside your electrical panel:

Leg A: Breakers 1,2,5,6,9,10,13,14, etc.

Leg B: Breakers 3,4,7,8,11,12,15,16, etc.

Using network powerline adapters that are all on either Leg A OR all on Leg B will help insure that the signal will get through.

As an example, your network modem/router comes into your house in your living room (breaker #6) and you need to connect your computer in your office (breaker #14) - they will work. But when you try to connect the computer in your daughter’s bedroom (breaker #11) that won’t work.

And now I’ve spent WAY too much time on this topic. Enjoy!

If all you are looking for is wi-fi, then it seems like you could save your self a few bucks if you eliminate one powerline adapter and one router off the same floor and just put in a stand-alone wi-fi extender to cover the dead zones in your house (top of the stairs sounds like a good place). Not only would that save some money, but also simplify the set-up and reduce any aggravation trying to keep all of the powerline adapters on the same electrical leg.

Just my two cents worth. Your mileage may vary.

I love these things, been using them for years to extend my wifi into many areas in my house, with a direct connection. Never had a problem with them. I do in fact use this brand, just not this model. I am ordering these tho because of the pass through outlet.

This is actually a big concern for me. I wonder if there is a way to “silence” the signal post-breakers?

Can i ask its autovolt? Would it work for 220v? Thanks!

I see, but (and pardon my cluelessness) If I already get a weak signal in an area, wouldn’t an extender just amplify a weak signal and introduce noise and interference, making the situation worse? I haven’t heard great things about extenders in general.

While extenders are not a panacea, they can work well in many circumstances. You don’t put the extender in the area of weak signal, you put it on the edge of the area where you get GOOD signal and it extends it to cover the area where there is weak or no signal - like a relay.

When set up, some extenders create a new network name (for example it adds “ext” on the end of your current network’s name) and some just keep the original network name so all your device ever sees is a single network in the entire house. There are plenty of options to get a refurb unit inexpensively to try it out without killing your wallet.

Also, if you have an old wi-fi router lying around you may be able to set it to relay your wi-fi signal (if it has the ability) so a brief read of the full user’s manual would be a half-hour not wasted. Lots of advice and diagrams online for reference.

I bought one set of these and plugged them in. While they do make a connection across the house, it is quite a slow one. This makes sense when you consider the physics (skin effect vs. frequency, etc.)

Best case: 135Mbps for 2 outlets in the same room

Typical: 15-65 Mbps for outlets across the house

Benefits:

  • not subject to interference from other WiFi APs
  • Metal in walls, floor, ceiling don’t interfere

Love it. Hooked up in a matter of minutes

For those who are concerned about the security. These adapters do encrypt the connection, and there is a button that allows randomizing the key, i.e. you may make your network private and the other devices won’t be able to connect until explicitly sync’ed.

I haven’t found the encryption specification on this devices, but it’s likely AES since this is a standard for this kind of the devices. In overall, AES is a strong encryption protocol, but depending on the exact implementation it can be more or less susceptible to the attacks. If you’re very concerned, you can just randomize the key every week, and this will protect your adapters with almost 100% guarantee (unless you’re being hacked by NSA).

Btw, my maximum speed was 350 Mbit/s. This is for the case of plugging the both adapters into the same power socket. Since it’s the best possible condition, I’d say 350 is the physical maximum.