Ditto. Doesn’t yours have the button cell holding tank under the tester?
I also bought these batteries. They’re fine.
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Yeah, but do you think they’ll fit?
PS: The packages with the green back # 377’s I got from woot last year diiirrrrttttt cheap.
They expire the end of this year & I will probably throw most of them out, but I got my monies worth with them. I went through a few cards
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Ahhh. I didn’t realize you were a collector lol.
I only use them in my cat’s laser light and the key fobs for the cars.
My nose is still burning from the bitter coating they put on those, ugh it smells. I leave those ones in the original packaging until I have to use them. I was just curious what my tester said. I have regrets opening it lol.
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Ok I hit the laughing emoji when you replied, but you added more to your post later so I’ll just add you have a sensitive 
And 
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Yeah. I had started to post, but hit reply before I was finished. I do that all the time.
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Dealing with a dead car key battery is annoying, even if it discharges from sitting over time it’s great to have a couple of 2032s sitting around. The rate that these batteries discharge at is pretty negligible honestly. Me just having it in my house has come in handy two times for when my friends battery died while visiting my place.
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I ended up with like a hundred 2016 cells. Where possible, I’ve been using them in place of a 2032 by adding a penny.
2032 = 20mm diameter, 3.2mm thick.
2016 = 20mm diameter, 1.6mm thick.
Penny = 19.05mm diameter, 1.52mm thick.
My car’s remote doesn’t like it when the voltage drops below 3.0V, so if something else needs its battery replaced, I’ll put a new one in the car’s remote and use its battery in that something else.
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What’s a penny?
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That’s creative with the penny. I dont have any devices to test the penny thing. Some of my batteries are very old & probably dead, but i wont know until i pull them off the card to use them & they aren’t taking up much room. As long as i dont see leakage they can sit there. I had 2 Mazdas before my current car & when i sold them i ended up giving the buyers new batteries for the keyfobs because i had no use for them. They were those 23A half sized AAA batteries. My current fob uses the 2032 ones. I find that eBay is cheaper than amazon for the button batteries. Surprised about that
@Wooter546419745 i agree when your keyfob dies it sucks. I keep a spare in the car. Alot of cars will still start with a dead keyfob battery if you put the fob in the cup holder closest to the dash. It’s in my owners manual & on youtube too
@Froodyfrog who’s Penny?
Continuing the battery topic last year i got a laser pointer in a boc that was almost dead so i opened it to check the batteries & 2 of them split in half. You could see the white stuff (acid)? Never had that happen with button batteries before. And yes i had the correct size in my stash & replaced them. I dont think i still have the pics, but if i do i will post
LMAO. I just paid like $14 for this 4 pack at dollar tree …
Few batteries seem to be coming from Japan anymore. Exception: Panasonic Eneloop Pro (Black). But they are NiMH which at 1.2 V are lower voltage than Alkaline 1.5 V and YMMV whether they are reliable in a camera. Some like “Fuji” branded that you might think are made in Japan are often outsourced.
My 2032 batteries made in China have been excellent. Others made in Indonesia. OK. May want to note that Chinese Li ion and lithium ferrous Phosphate (LiFePO4) are sometimes best from some Chinese factories. Tesla sources their batteries from China due to higher energy density, faster recharge, and running cooler. I have no idea why the US lost its capacity to innovate and manufacture batteries.
Anyway, here you go:
Manufactured in China for Eveready.
Environmental impacts from battery production, followed by the environmental regulations being pretty sweeping, were the first thing to impact US battery production. The location of raw materials and the environmental impact of mining those and the related regulations was the second thing to impact US production. Once those things made it cost effective to make batteries in China, the tech development continues here in the US, as well as world wide, but the production is sent to China vs investing in building new production factories in the US that would have to meet US standards vs just up fitting an existing factory in China.
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Yes, but Li Ion technology in China was revolutionized design and battery composition to the point they ran cooler and most importantly charged faster than he had been able to make such that it attracted the attention of Elon Musk for Tesla source those rather than simply make his older style for the EV cars. My understanding is that those were fully independent R&D and key to whether there is success: manufacturing.
Tesla also sources LiFePO4 batteries for some applications (not sure which product line) due to higher safety than Li Ion although they have less energy density.
Thanks for this. I’ve bought generic button batteries of various sizes on Amazon it seems like they would work for a little while after I installed them, but then would die and then when I go to get more the other ones would be dead as well.
We just bought some of these at Wegmans, but I think I’m going to stick to the name brand whenever I do the button batteries from now on. Definitely gonna get some.
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Hi all,
When it comes to testing button batteries, I’ve found a few reliable ways over the years.
Don’t laugh but drop the button battery from 3 feet to 4 feet onto a hard surface such as a wood or smoothish tile floor. If the battery flops, rolls over and plays dead, then there’s a good chance it’s time to recycle it. If the battery bounces when it hits the floor, it likely has some juice. I could never determine if it’s possible to tell how much juice remains depending upon how high it bounces or how many bounces it does before settling down.
For me, the better way is to use the good ole multimeter. Set it to DV, either auto-ranging or 20V. Touch the black prob to the ( - ) side (usually the rough side). If it’s possible, touch the red prob to the ( + ) side (usually the smoother side. It’s just as good to put the red probe on the side or what we call the edge of a coin. As long as the circuit completes. There might be some jitter on the multimeter readout so keep the probes in contact with the battery until the multimeter readout settles down and shows one number for several seconds. The 2032 is 3V so if you get 2.7 to 3.3 the battery should have plenty more juice.
Either way works with all size of lithium button batteries. I can’t recall what I did with NiCads but if memory serves … if they never get fully recharged it recycle time. But there were times when the NiCad wouldn’t fully charge but it would hold a percentage of a charge that’s enough to provide some power, just for a shorter amount of time.
Hope this helps and I’m gonna take a chance and get a few packs of there 2032s.