APEC Reverse Osmosis Filtration- Your Choice

does anyone know what the difference is between the three units it doesn’t really say in the descriptionjust not sure what you get for the more money

The main difference is the number of gallons made per day: 50, 75, or 90. I have an older APEC 45 gal per day and that is easily more than enough for my household of 3.

The other big difference is that the 75 has an additional 6th stage that adds back some “good” salts after the RO filtration. This is the first I have seen of that model so no recommendations there either way.


If you’re going to all the effort of filtering out minerals you don’t want to drink, why would you aerate those minerals and breath them?

Indeed, you can see warranty info at the bottom of the features tab on any sales detail page. This comes with: Warranty: 1 Year APEC

Do your self a favor and look at the cost of replacement filters including the RO membrane. It may literally be cheaper to buy 2 complete units (I have an older Honeywell, and that was the case by a large margin)

The filters generally have different replacement schedules as well, and that’s sort of a PITA. I’m not one to put my entire life on a calendar, so I generally let them go too long and replace them all at once.

I plumbed mine from the basement up to the kitchen (WAY too big for under the sink IMO, and I don’t want to be changing filters every 3 months in a 4x4 foot space) where it feeds the refrigerator and a cold and hot drinking water setup. The flow is SLOW - I should have put in an assist pump - caveat emptor.

thank you in for a fifty myself but does anyone know my girlfriend lives in the acreage and has the most nasty well water uses a narrator and salt how will these work in which is the best one she does not use much water thank you ahead of time

Saw the pic, would love to know how you built the cube.

I bought an electronic kit box from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007POB85K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cut a 1/4" hole in the top for the faucet and a small hole in the back for the water tube.

I mounted the faucet and installed the tube. I packed the inside with some of the foam padding that came with the filter so there would be no stress on the top when I press the level for the water.

Whole thing took about 30 minutes.

Maybe I missed it but how did you get the original waterline up through the sink cupboard?

Oh sorry, I pulled out the dish washer and ran the line behind it and drilled a small hole in the side of the wooden cabinet and then ran the line up to the counter top. The hole is really small and would never be noticeable. My refrigerator sits there as well so I was able to do a T split into the ice maker as well and keep it all hidden.

Today I changed all 5 of my filters in my APEC RO-45 system I purchased 5 years ago. Normal maintenance requires 3 new filters per year. APEC makes a quality unit! It works just as good today as it did on the 1st day. The water is good and the unit has never leaked or required any repairs.

I totally agree with this. I would buy another APEC.

I assure you that the amount of minerals breathed in is insignificant. Most settle out as dust, much the same as is the case with cold mist vaporizer type humidifier. The water saved is, however, quite significant.

Part of my job is to maintain 2 RO systems similar to these. I drink the stuff all the time. I’m going to buy one of these for our house. But I will likely get a pressure booster pump and put it between the sediment and carbon filters. The membrane needs pressure in excess of the osmotic pressure of the feed solute-water-mix (tap water). So between carbon and membrane makes sense, except I don’t want to foul the booster pump with loose carbon. I’ll install between sed and carb, and will flush a few gallons from the carbon filter every time I change it, before connecting to the tft membrane. BTW, chlorine will ruin the membrane, which does the RO. The carbon filter upstream of the membrane removes the chlorine. So don’t skimp there, replace the carbon 2 or 4 X as often as the membrane. Check the sed for color. Don’t let it get orange. Buy some extra quick-connect John Guest Tees and valves and put between every single stage, if you want to easily test the system a step at a time. If you get a booster pump, it has a pressure switch. If the bladder goes below a certain psi, the pump kicks on until the bladder is full enough the psi goes X psi higher (12 psi on the systems i work on). Anyway, a pump needs electricity so it complicates the system. These don’t appear to have (need?) a booster pump, I’ll believe it when I see it.

Got it installed - not too hard to do… and we are loving it!