So what’s the difference (besides color) between the two Ripples…K400KXP and K406BXP?
Ken Onion’s “Ripple” line with the IKBS bearing system are among the best production knives in their category.
I own several production models in the Ripple/Ripple 2 line (as well as one of the custom knives the Ripple is based on). I highly recommend the production knives. They are fast, they are sharp, and they are attractive, almost Giger-esque.
Folding ripple is what you want. Acuto+ seems to be a modified 9Cr13MoVCo steel with better edge retention. The Razor edge is a 420J. That’s low-end budget steel mainly for diving since its extremely corrosion resistant, you can find those for $10.
Your cheaper options would be the Ontario Pink knife or the kershaw injection. 8Cr13MoV or AUS-8 are both decent steels, excellent considering both are ~$20.
Correction: Razor Edge is actually made with Acuto440. Acuto+ is negigibly stronger than the Acuto440, so I still recommend the folding ripple.
You misread the specs. The 420J is the handle material, which is the same for both knives. The titanium bronze has Acuto 440 for the blade, and the black has Acuto+.
It’s disappointing when you see something awesome in the photo, get excited about it, only to find out that the thing you love in the photo isn’t offered in the sale …the open knife at the top with the half serrated edge
Even more disappointing is when they add stuff AFTER you placed your order for the day and get wacked another $5.00 shipping charge when you order the newly listed product!
Got to love those Veff serrations!
The one depicted may be a Mini My Tighe 1093 or the full sized Columbia River Knife and Tool 1091. As nice or even nicer, is the CRKT 1091K in black!
Edit: Looks like there’s the “Ripple 2”, discontinued, just shorter blade/size.
these suckers are $50+ on amazon.
Got mine today. It is indeed the ripple 2, as stated right on the package.
Build quality is OK. The pivot has a very slight, almost imperceptible, wiggle that I’m hoping won’t increase with use. The handle is coated gray and then worn through on the ribs of the design to give it a worn in look. The clip side looks too worn out to me, the opposite side was barely rubbed down at all. I would have liked a little more consistency from side to side on the finish. The pivot is smooth, but usually won’t open all the way unless you flick your wrist while opening. This isn’t a big deal, but I have to relearn the movement as I’m used to assisted opening.
For the price I’m satisfied, but if I had held the knife in person I would have bought another Kershaw Leek instead.
IKBS allows for you to tighten the pivot to reduce play without hindering the action. Get a T8 (I think) Torx bit and crank the pivot a bit at a time until you don’t have play. If it seems tight after, put a couple drops of oil in and open and close the blade several times to allow the bearings to “seat” which means wear into the track that they are following.
Edit: Here’s the official IKBS site and info on how to seat the bearings to the race. http://www.ikbsknifetech.com/20801.html
Thanks for that, I’m gonna do some adjusting later tonight and see if I can get it dialed in.
Also, it looks like April knives do NOT bring May knives. These are all the same April knives.
The 6521 Long Mah is NOT a locking blade. Just sayin’. Kind of last century.
Yea but… That makes it a knife that is legal to carry in some cities and countries. Not everyone lives in a “free” society.
Wait…then why is the Liong Mah listed as having a “slipjoint locking mechanism?” WTF? Does this thing lock or not? Was about to order one for general use but now I’m reconsidering.
yea I got the Liong Mah, it does not lock terribly well, slip joint lock or not, definitely a throwback to an old pocket knife. Mind you I can’t use a hand movement to close it, but it takes very little pressure to close it.
Calling the Mah a slipjoint is a bit of a stretch. It’s a Ball Detent system, which, as someone mentioned makes for a rather “world legal” Knife. Most of Mah’s CRKT designs are this mechanism IIRC.
A slip joint is like Grandpa’s knife or a swiss army knife. You open the blade, it clicks open. The pressure of the back spring is held onto the tang of the knife which in turn helps hold it in place. To close, you put a bit of force on the spine of the blade, the backspring will move and allow the blade to close.
A ball detent is harder to explain. It’s a ball bearing in the frame of the knife that will Click into a hole on the blade to help keep the knife closed on most folding knives. some knives have two holes in the tang of the blade, one to click open and one closed. It will keep the blade in place during use, but you would not want to apply any side to side or twisting pressure on the blade as it will release the detent ball from the blade.
Neither are a true “Lock” as you push the blade to close the knife. A lock would have to be physically moved to allow the blade to close.
Hopefully this helps!
Yes, it certainly does, thank you. As I like keeping my fingers on my hand, I’m gonna have to pass on the knife I was going to get–I tend to beat my stuff up/use it hard, and need the blade to stay in place.