Currently remodeling a mobile home. Had to gut the place and start from scratch. Would just one of these be enough for this type of home? One person living there, 12 X 40…
I have had a Bosch for several years, putting up with the same issues you noted. It will produce lots of hot water for the whole house just fine, but can’t handle small quantities. If I wanted my skin scalded off every shower it would be no problem.
On the other hand, I know several friends and relatives who have Rinnai units, and have almost no issues.
I am currently negotiating to replace my Bosch with a Rinnai.
For me, a huge plus to the tankless was being able to move it outside and gain a few precious square feet in my 1950’s tiny post-war bungalow.
OK, maybe I’m reading the specs wrong…
It appears that the largest unit — 13,000 watts — has a flow rate of 0.9 GPM at 77˚F.
For starters, 77˚F isn’t exactly hot…and 0.9 GPM isn’t good for anything but the sink. Sure, it says that its flow rate at 35˚F is 2.8 GPM — but who needs a water heater if you want your water 35˚F?
Extrapolating the vendor-supplied information, it would appear that GPM flow rates at anything approaching 100˚F is, um, nonexistent.
Naturally, I may be “all wet”…but if the above quoted figures are not indicative of the units’ performances, why would they be published?
I installed a Norton N-120(4gpm & 11.8 kW) in my Grandmothers home about 2 years ago. For just two people, it has worked great. She has saved money over her gas water heater and the only issue is making sure your turn on the water at the sink all the way to trigger the unit. Shower hasn’t been a problem. The Norton($350) is more expensive than this unit, but still much less than many others. If you have some DIY skills you can run the power, but you need to make sure your service can handle the load. You can’t run this if your home has an older/smaller 100A service.
That the temp rise from whatever it started at. That is why they show you the chart of typical water temps across the US.
The temperatures you mentioned are the degree rise in the water not the final temperature.
If you start with 70 degree water a 35 degree rise will result in 105 degree output.
edit: ninja’d twice
I am just going to give everyone a little tip, seeing as I sell plumbing supplies for a living. This is not a whole house unit. The biggest one that they are selling, would supply a single bathroom. That being just the sink, and that is being generous. In Michigan, the water temp is 52 degrees year round. To get 120 degree water, you need to raise that water 68 degrees, which we call teh rise. So at a 70 degree rise, you are going to get about .1 gallon per minute. The standard lav faucet is 1.5gpm.
I am considering this for my Kitchen. It is the room farthest from my water heater and takes a long time to draw hot water. What I want to know is how long does a unit like this take from turning the flow on to outputting water at the hottest temperature?
We have an outdoor kitchen, that is electrical wired, but only has cold water. I am thinking this would be ideal for under the counter. We don’t need a lot of hot water there, but would be nice to rinse off your dishes or hands with warm water for a change
Check Noritz my friend. Very nice gas tankless water heaters. I’ve had 3 in various homes I lived in and (cross fingers) never had any issues what so ever. Super easy to install (in fact installed all 3 of them myself) and throughly love them…I also debated rinnai (pretty nice as well) on all my purchases for these heaters but always ended up going back to Noritz…Open one up and compare it to the Bosch, you’ll see why …
Unfortunately, 105f is sorely low for hot water. 105f may be bath temp, but misses hand washing temp by about 10f.
I was excited when I saw these listed, and I’m sure they’re great for some uses such as a bakery that needs water delivered at a steady temperature for yeast, but I don’t see much of a use in a normal house.
Please note: for those looking to purchase one of these units to replace your whole-home water heater, these will NOT work. These are point of use heaters, designed to hide under your sink or behind your shower and only provide water for those outlets.
That being said, there are exceptions. I own a 2.6 GPH Bosch tankless water heater. I also live in Florida where the tap water comes out at about 72F. This means that my unit does not have to work as hard to heat the water. At the highest setting, my heater can provide 113F water at the full 2.6 GPH, with the water temp getting hotter the less water I use, which makes adjusting the shower temperature a balancing act, but one that you can easily get used to.
Because of my relatively warm tap water and the small size of my house, my unit can run at least 2 major applications (such as shower and dishwasher) at the same time without any noticeable drop in temp. But if you live in a colder area, be warned that even the strongest unit in this offering can only really run a sink or shower and nothing else.
We have a non-srorage heater running off of a high efficiency gas furnace. I considered one of these for the upstairs bathroom that’s farthest from the heater. Mainly because when we turn the water on it runs for a couple of minutes before the hot water gets up there. I haven’t measured it but it’s probably 2+ gallons down the drain. I backed away based on maintenance problems and the fact these are open loop devices, they’re on or off nothing in between. I’d like one to heat up when the water being drawn is cold then modulate down to off when the hot water shows up. But it has been my observation that the plumbing industry and the electronics control industry don’t seem to be talking to each other. maybe in the future.
Tanks but no tanks!
Where do these things need to be installed? We’re in the process of building a bar/game room above the garage and are considering our hot water options. These point of use heaters seem a great option for a space that only needs occasional small amounts of hot water. But man this thing is ugly! I only saw install instructions for a shower at their website and it looks like it has to be installed high up. Would it be the same for a sink, needs to be installed above? Or could it be installed inside a sink cabinet?
Also, we’re thinking of putting a pedestal sink in the bathroom. Could this heater be installed inside the closet on the other side of the wall and run through a hole behind the sink?
so, if i’m reading these comments right, there is no real option for a whole-house electric tankless heater in midwestern climates (Ohio/Indiana/Illinois)? Rats. We don’t have gas service in our area, have a family of 4, 2.5 baths, and a major desire to go tankless…
From Michigan too and our friend who is a heating/cooling installer said the same. For larger houses(3000 sq/ft here), the cost to equip the whole house would take forever to recoup.