Atmor Instant Tankless Electric Water Heaters
Price: $74.99 - 94.99
Shipping Options:: $5 Standard
Shipping Estimates: Ships in 3-5 business days. (Wednesday, Aug 05 to Monday, Aug 10) + transit
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Time to learn all about installation along with links to assembly instructions and manual
I have had an electric and a gas tankless. They both do what they are suppose to do. The difference being, electric costs a fortune to run. If you have gas service I strongly recommend going gas. Yes, a gas unit costs more up front, but the monthly cost is a fraction of electric.
I had a 220v 90 amp unit, my lights would dim when it went on. Which is weird when you are standing in the shower.
People that don’t have gas are the ones forced to buy electric water heaters. No, they aren’t as cheap as gas to operate but these new efficient models saved a lot on my electric bill than when I had a 50gal tank heater.
If your house has the capacity and the heater is wired properly, your lights will not dim. I have the biggest model made and not once have mine ever dimmed when the heater came on. I would get a real electrician out if it ever did. I love mine and glad I made the change.
The coolest part is when you are gone on vacation, it never comes on. You don’t have to turn it off like with tank heaters
This is a repeat post from 3/1/15:
Flow rates defined: if your water was flowing at a rate of 2.15 gallons per minute (GPM), the AT-900-10 unit can raise the temperature of the water by 35 degrees fahrenheit. For example, if the average cold water temperature in Miami is 77 fahrenheit degrees, the max.hot water temperature in the outlet will be 77+35= 112 fahrenheit degrees. The average water heater [tank] is set at 110 degrees fahrenheit.
Something to keep in mind…
People return these types of instant heaters quite often because they don’t realize that they heat water differently.
For a shower, the very minimum you can get away with is the 13KW model. And even then, you will only have the hot water ON in the shower to have acceptable warmth. In the northern parts of the country and Midwest where the water temperature entering the house may only be 50-55 degrees, you probably won’t be happy with even the largest unit.
Missouri and northward, the very minimum would be 9KW for a bathroom sink and preferably 18KW (which they don’t have) for a decent shower.
This review is more for Overstock than it is for the product.
I bought the 13KW and installed it in my shed so the kids could have warm pool/water slide water as our water temp from the city is always freezing cold in Iowa. Plan on spending another $100 in power lines, circuit breaker, etc assuming you can do all the labor yourself. I had to use 4GA wire which is very difficult to work with. I love the unit for our use and if I only turn on the water at half flow it gets warm enough. Otherwise, these units are really for under sink and slow flow scenarios. I can’t see it powering a shower well even at the 13KW level.
:Good points, Agree with all you said.
It’s playing peek-a-boo with you!
My lights do that when I turn my AC on.
My tank is set just below 145
Avg is 120
There are are very limited places where this increase would do any good.
Only real use for is a ‘local’ heater - a booster on the hot line for an outlet a long way away from source that takes a long time to come to temp… so a sink that takes 10sec…1minute to come to temp?
Sure, put one of these there if you want reasonably hot water much sooner.
Thanks for this tip
the sale surely didn’t last long; how many did they have to sell ? maybe 6 ??
Would any of these units work in a continuous loop for a radiant floor heat?