No customer service from bylt and doesn’t work on 2002 Pontiac
It works, however be prepared to spend a few hours digging up info, and still spend time reverse engineering things anyway to make it work right.
Curious side effect for 2007 Ford Focus, Key-less entry stops working if plugged in. Unplug the HUD and 'errything works peachy… Go figure.
That was another issue I had with my 2002 Pontiac, keyless remote stopped working unless I held the remote next to the drivers door. Again, no customer support from Bylt. Not sure they’re actively in business anymore, just a bunch of leftover HUD’s from some lost warehouse.
Weird - it did that on my 2008 Toyota too. I thought my key fob batteries were dying, so I replaced them only to continue having a problem. Then I realized it started right about the time when I put the HUD in there.
The thing is in my ‘scrap for parts’ box. Should be good for some interesting LEDs.
Keyless entry on all my vehicles does not work when the unit is plugged in. There is absolutely no customer support for the product. I’ve made several attempts to get help with the issue with no response.
Lol Great, guess Ill skip it for my 07 Focus. Although my keyless is aftermarket with the remote start, so I wonder.
Somehow, the unit being plugged in disables all other remote functions so if you want remote start to work, bypass this. It’s a nice concept but Bylt really screwed the pooch on functionality. Bad software or whatever. Maybe it’s why they either went out of business or refuse customer service.
Sorry Woot. I love your deals and good stuff but you were left with a bunch of paper weights on this acquisition.
It has a nice pair of massive multiplex drivers running the LEDs. It also has JTAG and what I think is pads for an RS232->Bluetooth module for smartphone connectivity.
At the very least it is possible to drive the LEDs with a serial data stream, just have to figure out the mappings.
Eventually we’ll get around to playing with it, for now she’s happy her keyless entry works again.
I’m going to whack a relay into the cable tied to ignition hot, so when the key is out it might actually make the keyfobs work alright, we’ll see.
Same issues with the door locks as everyone else seems to be having. Tried it on a 2005 Toyota RAV4 and a 2013 Kia Soul and on both cars you had to stand right next to the driver door to get them to lock or unlock. The Soul also started getting low tire pressure alerts. The tires were fine and removing the unit made the alerts go away. What a complete waste of money.
To be honest, you’d be much better off picking up a bluetooth ODB II reader and then install an app like Torque on your smart phone or tablet. It has a “heads” up display mode and it also reads any errors on the computer giving you full access to ODB II problems. Plus since its bluetooth, no stupid cables running in the car. You can also configure what ever information you want to see on the screen. If I want to see the boost from the Turbos, add that gauge, if I want to know intake temperature . . .etc.
Does not work with 2004 Ford Ranger or Expedition. Infuriating.
$40 shipped for a couple of LED drivers and some bottom-of-the-bin LEDs PLUS the time to reverse engineer this bit of garbage just isn’t worth it. If you broke it open, what’s the CPU in there? I bet its clock or the harmonics are hitting the RKE frequency and crosstalk on CAN or supply.