Apparently these devices give you like 1.5 to 2.5 minutes of power. They don’t seem to mention that much.
It’s not a “keep stuff powered during an outage” system.
It’s a “provide stable power during power fluctuations and keep stuff powered just long enough to shut down during an outage” system.
If you want long-term backup power, you’d need a generator.
I have a 1350va/810w. It says 38 min left with a 5900x CPU, 6700xt GPU and a 38" monitor… I have gotten close to 30min before I have to shut down during an outage. Have another one with the router and ONT plugged into it that would last hours to keep internet up.
Typically, you would set up your software or OS to automatically shut down properly before the battery dies. The idea is to protect the equipment from damage, and protect any data that the computer was working with when the outage happened. UPS systems aren’t for extending uptime so much as mitigating damage and data loss.
Where did you hear that nonsense.
I have UPS’ of this size powering my internet connection equipment, home theater, computers. Battery life depends on the load, but under economical conditions, mine last hours. Yes, I’ve tested during actual blackouts.
A 1350 or 1500 ups is sufficiently robust for a computer and monitor, leaving plenty of time to save work and sleep/shutdown. macOS and other operating systems can shutdown automatically if connected to the ups via usb cable.
It is true that SLA batteries don’t linearly scale load with capacity. At full load these things only provide a few minutes of power.
I’m only speaking from experience, probably NOT what you call “full load.” E.g. internet modem and router, a few hours. Home theater, maybe 30 minutes (varies with activity). Computers, not sure (hasn’t been a blackout since installing).
As they say, YMMV.
Oh yeah if you have 1000 watts load on it, you’re only getting a few minutes. Right now mine is averaging 170 watts. 38 min remaining.
“Where did you hear that nonsense.”
From the product information, I forget if it was Amazon details or manufacturer page . Quite a difference.
Don’t run a microwave oven or air fryer on this. Problem solved.