Do the antenna come off so that you can switch them w/ hi gain antenna?
D-link = dead link…
All Dlink link routers listed here have horrible reviews on the mothership (amazon.com)
Do yourself a favor. Avoid headaches from.these routers that crash and need daily rebooting…
Splurge on a linksys router and you will not regret it.
I can’t believe I’m seriously asking this on Woot! Are either of the USB Adapters OSX compatible?
Can anyone at Woot provide the hardware revision of either the DIR-615 or DIR-651?
I’m interested in whether either can run DDWRT or a Tomato variant?
It would be best to confirm with D-Link but I did find drivers for the DWA-130. Here
You might hunt around on the D-Link site for more info.
Think it depends on the hardware revision - some on the 615s are removable, some aren’t.
Just FYI for anyone else, after getting a chance to do more thorough research on the internet, I don’t think the hardware revision matters in regards to DDWRT compatibility.
Looks like all hardware revisions of the 615 work with DDWRT.
Haven’t been able to find anything concrete, but all indications are that 651 does NOT support DDWRT.
Likewise, wasn’t able to find any definite answer on Tomato compatibility for either model. I would assume that 615 would work while 651 wouldn’t.
Further research seems to indicate OpenWRT is an option but Tomato is not. Not certain, though.
This kind of Tomato variant?
I have the Wireless N 300 Gigabit router, and I haven’t rebooted in well over a year (when I turned off all the power to my house for electrical work). Just make sure you have the firmware up to date is all.
Linksys is one of the easiest routers to hack and their security is a joke.
Yes on the 615 for DD-WRT. I picked up 3 from Woot last week. All three were hardware revision E3 and could flash Version 24 preSP2 beta build 21061 directly from the original D-Link web interface. I actually set two of them up as wireless repeater bridges, following these instructions - Repeater Bridge - DD-WRT Wiki [use the Atheros instructions, because you will not see a drop-down for wireless repeater. You will need to pick “Client Bridge (routed)” and then add the virtual interface.]
I have one setup on each floor of my house, with a different SSID. My Wii and PS3 are hooked directly into the repeater closest to them. The main router gateway, connected to my cable modem is in the basement, so there is roughly 50’ to 75’ between the two repeaters and the gateway wouter. last I checked, the nearer repeater was getting 270mbps download speads from the gateway router. I don’t recall what the further one was getting, but we do watch our Roku 3 connected to it and get full super-HD quality.
So far, these have been rock solid, with no drops, disconnects, or resets. The anteneas are not removable on the ones I got
I am very happy with the performance for under $50 total.
I have to agree, I’ve used many Linksys and Netgear and the DLink I have now is by far the best. If you configure it properly you won’t have to power cycle it daily. Not sure how to configure it to cause daily power cycles though…
WBR2310 needed rebooting at least once a day with the factory settings. One should not have to use open source firmware to make a device work properly. All the routers here got very bad reviews on amazon…so feel free to buy all the dead link routers you want. I wouldn’t take one for free
Only thing worse than a D-Link router is a refurbished D-Link router.
I bought mine back in Dec of 2009 from woot (it was a refurb) and have been running ddwrt on mine for a long while. The model looks a bit different, but it is the same name DIR-615, but not sure if the hardware has changed. It’s pretty stable and I haven’t had to reboot it any more than any of my previous routers.
Thanks both waynemr and banshee9x for the responses about hardware revision and DDWRT compatibility.
As far as whether it should or shouldn’t be necessary to use open-source firmware to make a router work, factory firmware is always too limited and basic - even when it’s stable.
This may not be acccurate. I bought a D-Link 615 a while back (not from Woot) thinking I would OpenWRT it, since I had gone through two Linksys and one Belkin in a year and each one died on me. I read complaints about the D-Link router dropping connections, esp. if an apple and a non-apple device were both connected (higher bandwidth used, I imagine).
Anyway, I ended up with revision A of the hardware, which even today isn’t supported by OpenWRT. Neither is version B, which is what the comapany who sold it to me offered to trade it for (they had advertised it as “the latest” version, which to him meant “D-615 is the latest!!”, s my complaint went nowhere).
Bottom line: Make sure FROM WOOT that the revision is c or better, if you want to OpenWRT this baby. Then check for yourself here: http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start#d-link
Even among the newer revisions, since the chipset/platforms are different, you may find a difference in reliability - I don’t have personal experience with revisions C, D, or E so I don’t want to speak to that.
Also, a side note: I can’t praise the windsurfer template for antenna reflectors enough. I got a chance to teach my son something about radio waves, and my wife was a little happier as a result – that did seem to reduce the number of reboots required to two or three a week, rather than the daily reboots before. You can use this link to help yourself: Ez-12
I wouldn’t be so sure, without double-checking the specific hardware revisions. I have had two D-615s (revisions a and b) and neither would work with either DDWRT or Tomato. There is nothing more frustrating than buying something based on people telling me that all will be well and it does not end up being so :-). Please do your research carefully!