Awesome! Now you can grow…plants without the power spike to let prying eyes know. I bet they do a bang-up business in Colorado and Washington.
Is there any info on the actual lumens produced by the lights? And the actual power used?
I doubt that the 500W LED kit uses 500W that would be an extremely inefficient LED kit. I also doubt that it uses only 3W as listed for all the light kits.
If you’re in CO or WA, you can just use that big ole lighting system in the sky as you win ribbons at the county fair for your massive buds alongside that guy who grows huge pumpkins. These are best for everyone else, who risk being put in a cage by armed thugs just for growing a plant.
I was trying to figure out the same thing. The other question I can’t seem to find an answer to is what is the actual color of the light (bandwidth range). I have a use for a couple but I want white light. The 3W is PROBABLY per LED light so you could end with quite a few Watts being used by the light but depending on the intensity of the light being emitted in Lumens… The iPower sight doesn’t even list the LED lights.
I did figure out the wattage question. If it wasn’t already obvious in the specs the products are actually stamped with it. Wattage is the ACTUAL wattage of the fixture. It is 3 Watts per LED light. Depending on your light output for that Wattage now…
Checking in with the buyer/vendor. I’ll post an update ASAP.
UPDATE: Here’s what we got back from the vendor:
3W is in reference to the wattage of each individual LED. i.e. 500w led = 168 * 3w LEDS
LED colors are a combination of Blue: 440nm & 460nm, Red: 630nm & 660nm, and White: 3000K
As for the lumen specifications, LED grow lights are more effectively measured in Photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) as LEDs are formulated with PAR wavelengths specific to plant growth. LED grow light panels will have a much lower lumen rating than a comparable-wattage High Pressure Sodium (HPS) system but a much higher PAR rating. Below is a comparison of between our LEDs and the equivalent HPS system.
135w led = 300w hps
180w led = 400w hps
270w led = 600w hps
300w led = 650w hps
500w led = 1200w hps
iPower GLLEDXA135CUFO is 5 dollars cheaper on AMAZON.com and FREE shipping.
WOOT you’re breaking my heart.
hmm actually I have been looking to move to Led Lighting for my reef tank these might do the trick.
“I’m a smoker. I’m a midnight toker. I sure don’t want to hurt no one. I’m a picker. I’m a grinner. I’m a lover. And I’m a Wooter.”
That was exactly my first thought. (Sad?) Then, I over-thought when I realized that LED lighting isn’t usually any more efficient than high-pressure sodium. Then I got the whole picture with:
So, the LEDs are indeed (>2x) more efficient.
Thinking >> over-thinking >> complete thinking
Sadly, this is not true. It’s still against federal law. So we (Colorado residents) have to be discrete. Besides, the air is dry and the weather is cold. Because of those reasons California makes a better place to grow outdoors.
PS- the 400w light set is a good deal; also the bulbs. I just paid $50-ish for a 600w bulb with the same brand.
I’m not seeing what you’re seeing. $99 at w00t, $137 at Amazon.
If you are a serious grower i would not touch these as they do not give you enough information (for me I would need the color spectrum ratios and wattage pulled from plug).
Also if since they are “multi-spectrum” they have 2 different modes; one for veg (more blue) and one for bloom (more red). Depending on grow set up this can be a pro or a con. If you have only 1 set up it is nice as you don’t need to swap lights. For me who has a veg and bloom room, it is a waste as I would have to purchase 2 lights and since they are not specialized for veg or bloom I would be wasting some LEDs.
That being said the prices are good, but I can get LED direct from manufacturer in China about the same price. I think i will give Ipower a call to see if they have more info on them.
There was one left last night. Must have been purchased by someone…
the 270watt newer generation is $50 cheaper on ebay also had the specs
1x iPower 270 Watt LED Grow Light, 120v Power cord, and Hanger set
Up to 80-percent more energy efficient than traditional MH or HPS lamps
Zero maintenance costs; no expensive bulbs to replace
Can be used with any indoor growing method: hydroponics, aeroponics or soil growing
Low thermal footprint; 2 integrated cooling fan keep LEDs at optimal temperatures to ensure long life span
No need for additional cooling equipment, ballasts or reflectors
Easy to install integrated hanging kit
Safe to operate; no risk of fire, burns or exploding bulbs
LED Chipset: 3 Watts
Number of LEDs: 90 LED Configuration: 30x 660nm, 30x 630nm, 6x 460nm, 6x 440nm, 18x 3000K
LED Lifespan (hours): 50,000
Warranty Terms: Limited 2 years Manufacturer’s
Operating Voltage: 86-264
Operating Frequency(Hz): 50/60
Product Weight(lbs): 9.2
Product Dimensions(Inches): 15.75 L x 11 W x 3 H
I do not care that is says Multispectrum with 180 watts of LED being red it is for bloom, I would not use this for vegging plants not enough blue/white. But $200 for 270watt current gen LED is a steal, with 2 year warrenty it is worth it. I am picking one up from ebay.
I can’t find many reviews on these products online. I see that the majority of bulbs are higher up in the spectrum, but there are still ~30LEDs @ 460nm or below. That may come out to around 90 watts? That should be plenty to veg out some smaller ones I would think?
Are there any negatives to using LEDs ( beside the initial price ) ?
Also, what about the alignment of the LEDs? On some of the other models, its just a rectangular layout, the one you have linked to and the 270w advertised here has 6 groups of circularly aligned LEDs, any idea what logic is behind this?
What makes you think the version being sold here is an older gen?
Some people say that the LED produce less buds. Also, I’ve heard that the ballast lights grow plants faster. If I had a couple grand to drop I would switch to completely LED lighting. The pros way out weigh the (possible) cons.
I currently design and used to sell LED grow lighting systems. The LEDs can almost be guaranteed to not be driven at full power. That 135W, when hooked up to a Kill-A-Watt, is likely drawing ~75. Figure half for the claimed wattage, as they’re only counting by the LED’s rated maximum drive.
As most panels are simply not balanced out in overall spectrum, lumens is a horrible means to rate efficiency of an LED panel. Instead, we simply go by Photon Flux (it’s all photosynthetically active. Don’t let marketing fool you.)
Sunlight intensity is 2,000 umol. Wherever the bare boundary of that is from the panel, double that distance will be 1,000 umol. Double that again, 500 umol. That’s useful in determining how close you should keep these to your plants + how large of a plant you can grow underneath it.
Given the outdated technology, the price is right and I would recommend these. They will absolutely work, given what I’m reading on their specs. Just don’t expect full photon output (though in reality, most LEDs are not at their most efficient at full drive, so it’s understandable why most panel makers underdrive their systems.)
I’m a registered and licensed medical patient/cultivator. That is absolutely untrue since the past couple generations of LED. The first few generations of old style UFOs and such using plastic PCB and horrible 1w diodes, yes. Those were meant more for actual food than flowers of any sort. Now days? Oh no, LED works juuuuuust fine. Used it exclusively since 2008. At the prices I’m seeing here, you don’t need even a grand to have a decent growing area for any crop, even citrus trees produce wonderfully!