Jump Starters - Your Choice
Shipping Options:: $5 Standard
Shipping Estimates: Ships in 3-5 business days. (Thursday, Jan 14 to Tuesday, Jan 19) + transit
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Previous Similar Sales (May not be exact model)
12/29/2015 - $54.99 (Woot-off) - Click To See Discussion (6 comments)
12/19/2015 - $54.99 - Click To See Discussion (21 comments)
11/27/2015 - $54.99 (Woot-off) - Click To See Discussion (1 comments)
A 6000mah battery putting out 700a would be doing a discharge at 120c (120 times the rated capacity) and I don’t know a consumer grade battery chemistry that could do this. The jumper wires are not thick enough to carry that current without generating enough heat to melt even silicone insulation right off. Fortunately a car does not need 350-700a to start - more like 35-70a - which is a far more reasonable expectation for 6000mah cells. I think someone added a zero to the specs.
But they make damn fine defibrillators.
Solid points in general…but it is true that vehicle starters require this current for a very short period of time (for a few to a few dozen milliseconds), it depends on engine size and temperature. Current peaks of 600-800A on larger 8, and 10 cyl. vehicles and diesel engines are expected. I would agree with you that the “run” current (after the peak passes, or essentially continuous current), can vary from 15A-115A. For some time now (at least a decade), with great care and due attention, lithium batteries have been specially constructed for use in RC and high drain applications achieving 50-80C continuous discharge rates. Given the decade it seems fair, and only expected, that batteries constructed this way should trickle into consumer grade electronics by now. I am generally skeptical of performance stats. marketing departments put out there, but these numbers are wholly in the realm of possibilities, and believable. As for the wires, yes they cannot handle a continuous drain of 350-700A, there would be significant voltage drop across them during peak current draw, but for non-continuous applications like jump starting your car, I have used 18ga wire to great affect-the wire will not cause great issue. Its not optimal, but sufficient.
Not really a great deal. Wally World has a similar product for 39.99. Link and it actually has a bigger battery. Also to comment on the above, car batteries are rated in CCA or cold cranking amps and they are typically in the 350-700 amp range so to advertise that this product can output a peak 700A is hopefully correct otherwise it won’t be very useful.
90 day warranty is rip off. I bought one of these 6 mo back. It went dead about 4 months later. No help from woot and no response from email to mfg. I got B00ZZGE4KG as replacement elsewhere, it has an 18 month warranty.
Mine too, bought 1 in June 15 went dead in sep 15
Hardest I’ve laughed all day
Most common defibrillators (AEDs you’re likely to encounter) use lithium primary cells, either the common manganese dioxide, or the more exotic thionyl chloride, depending on the target market. (The latter offering better energy density and low-temp performance, but trickier to ship replacements.) Some older ones actually use lead-acid, and have a trickle-charger built into the cabinet.
In either case, a defibrillator’s battery is used to charge a bank of capacitors, which then deliver the shock to the patient. Their primary job is to be reliable for a very long time in storage, not necessarily peak power output.
Cars, on the other hand, start a little bit differently.
This jump-starter is a lithium-polymer secondary cell (or rather, a battery of 3 such cells in series), which is basically connected straight to the clips while in use. The lithium-polymer chemistry is quite tolerant of extreme currents, as yeoj points out.
Yup. When I bought a similar unit 2 years ago, I got out some test gear and put it through its paces. I was able to draw 100A continuously until my wiring started heating up, and the pack didn’t seem at all fazed by this. I came back after things cooled and pulled 200A for 5 seconds. My load pile was hot, my meter was upset, my wires were nearly smoking, but the pack itself was barely warm, and the pack’s own wires were hot but not alarmingly so. The diode block in the middle of the wire was the warmest part, unsurprisingly, but it didn’t seem at all harmed by the exercise.
Since that test, I’ve gone on to start two SUVs, two passenger cars, a minivan, and a stationary test engine. (Plus my own hybrid but that doesn’t count; it’s not a cranking load.) The only time it didn’t work on the first try was when the negative clip had bad contact, and after a moment of scraping, that one started too.
What looks interesting about this pack as compared to the one I own, is that this one says it charges from 5v, so it must have an internal boost circuit. That’s very cool, as carrying a 12v brick for recharging is my least favorite thing about mine. I hope that becomes ubiquitous by the time mine needs replacement.
Be aware that the one linked at walmart advertises 200A current with a 400A peak. That is substantially less than the current that this one is advertised as having.
One of the best buys I have made. I have started at least 5 cars for folks, including our van. No problems whatsoever. Also works great to recharge my phone if I forget one of my smaller rechargers. I don’t know why I never heard of these before. So long jumper cables!
Noticeably cheaper than on the mothership. Well reviewed, although there are multiple accusations of fake reviews.
This thing won’t jump start a Vespa. If your battery is a little weak, it might do the trick, but a dead battery will chew this up and s§it it out.
My 97 Legacy needs 450CCA (Cold Crank Amps) to get it to turn over. My Taurus needs about 600, and a V8 will need 750A. This has 350.
Do the Math.
Love comments like these from those who obviously have never used one… If it can start my dead F350 during the winter months then it can start your oh so power hungry () Legacy, Taurus and yes, your Vespa too. Our family has had these in several of our vehicles and they work as advertised, just have to make sure you keep them topped off every 5-6 months and they’re good to go.