Anybody else notice that that’s a FLUORESCENT and not an INCANDESCENT bulb? For shame, Woot.
Does the guy in the red shirt come with these products? You tend to specifically call out when they don’t, so I can only assume he does. Does he come with a warranty? Does he get shipped in a regular package or is he heavy/bulky?
It’s like a lesser Richard Donner movie!
Anyone else notice that the actual size of the conductors on these jumper cables IS NOT posted?
Woot!, if you would, post the AWG of the cables.
You ever see a set of jumper cables, with the insulation about 1/4 thick, and the conductors being a 14 or 16 AWG?
Oh, aluminum? Seriously? Aluminum? That is ILLEGAL for house wiring, now.
If you don’t know what the AWG standard is, Google is your friend.
Amazon (Darth Vader to Woot’s Luke) has a customer review for the Motor Trend MTA812-CCA-12 that says these cables are actually copper clad aluminum. Reviewer states they are not 100% copper. Buyer beware.
I am with the company that supplies these cables and would be more than happy to provide you with the gauge size on both cables; the 250amp clamp set is a 10 Gauge and the 500AMP clamp set is an 8 Gauge.
The plug in led light says 45 lumens!? Please, my cellphone light will put out more lumens. Woot, please don’t become a junk seller.
fluorescent do not handle very well when used in troublelights. They break as easy as a normal incandescent bulb. I’ve been thinking about the LED one though. IT should be able to handle being bounced off the floor accidentally or even slid across the floor. Need to do more homework on that one. In the meantime, my heavy duty bulbs will have to do.
incandescent?? Haunt you Amazon!!!
You mean work lights? I would go through a couple of filament bulbs every project on my pair of work lights. Flourescent are much better since there is not a weak/hot filament getting jostled around. They do make for a worse situation when they break (mercury and tiny glass shards), and after breaking 2-3 inside of the cage of my work light I moved to ones that have a plastic cover (break resistant). They were actually cheaper from wally world and I’ve been using those same 2 bulbs for about 2 years now (as someone who does a lot of work on 2 race cars, a race bike, 2 street bikes, and a DD).
That said I find most of the motor trend products pretty weak.
If the picture on Sears website is to be trusted, it looks like the wires are 10AWG.
So in the model number ‘MT1012’, it looks like the ‘10’ is the wire size (AWG) and the ‘12’ is the length. Similarly, for the ‘MT812’, the ‘8’ is the wire size (AWG) and the ‘12’ is the length.
But in either case, the current rating listed is grossly overrated. 10 AWG copper-clad aluminum is only good for 30 amps and 8 AWG copper-clad aluminum is good for 40 amps.
A good chart for copper-clad aluminum ampacities is available here:
HOWEVER, if the terminations at each end of the cable are good, these cables WILL WORK to charge a dead battery. You’ll just need to leave the cables connected for a few minutes to let the battery charge before trying to crank the engine over.
A ‘better’ set of cables with larger wires will often let you cheat and start the dead car by pulling current directly from the battery of the running vehicle. That’s something that this cables might not be able to do for you. This is all dependent on the size of the dead vehicle’s engine & it’s compression ratio, the size of its starter, the condition of its battery (i.e. 0% charge is a lot worse than 60% charge, even though neither will start the car).