That appears to be a no. “When choosing a connection format, bear in mind that the AV receiver doesn’t convert between formats, so only outputs of the same format as the input will output the signal.”
Which is something I’d love too. I have one vintage composite-only feed. Not only is that another cable, but I’d have to switch on the TV itself (not all switching in the receiver).
They do make composite-to-HDMI standalone boxes (monoprice brands one for around $50), which would add yet another black box to the growing fire hazard of my media tower.
mysterytrout,
I’d recommend contacting Onkyo Support to see if they’ll repair your receiver at no charge. Even years out of warranty, they repaired mine for free. They’ve had issues in the past, but appear to be trying to remedy that.
I am not clear how the Zone 2 speaker set-up works. Judging from the picture of the back of the unit, and the number of speaker connections it shows, it appears to me that you can only hook up Zone 2 if you do not use surround speakers in Zone 1? Is this correct or am I missing something?
Yes. You would use any of the audio connnectors (TV, PC, etc.) without using the yellow video input and choose that input to play. As for speakers, as long as they can handle the max output (check the labels on your speaker, but rarely can older ones not handle to 80w max), they are fine.
The product description says you can use “Onkyo’s remote apps for iPod touch®/iPhone® and Android devices”. However, this version doesn’t come with the USB Bluetooth or wireless adapters. Does anyone know if these remote apps only work if you buy one of these additional USB adapters?
My only real comment is I have a simple stereo Onkyo receiver (TX-8255, refurb) and I have no issues with it. Sound is great, not really much that can go wrong. I have an Onkyo iPod dock that sucks. The remote is quirky and the connector is hard to engage.
I’ve had a TX-NR515 for about nine months without any issues. It appears to be a year older and maybe a step up from this one, since mine has a little more power and does video upscaling (for 480i sources only).
This one has MultEQ for automatic speaker configuration, which is better than the basic 2EQ mine came with. Without looking it up I think MultEQ adds EQ on the subwoofer out, which would be nice.
Before you buy a pre-amp, check the specs. on your turntable. My turntable has a built in pre-amp, with the on/off switch accessible via a slot on the platter.
I keep getting “Sorry, but while you were completing your order, our shipping deadline passed. Check the new date and shipping speed to make sure it’s still what you want.” when ordering even though it is cearly before 11:30AM CST. It wont even let me choose Two-Day shipping. Anyone experience this?
Speakers are probably OK (check the ohm rating of the receiver and the speakers), but the turntable generally won’t work without a separate preamp. Most people on woot are too young to remember that turntables generally didn’t have line level outputs, but instead required specially equipped inputs in the receiver. Those started disappearing from receivers about a decade (or more?) ago. You can buy external devices that will do the trick, or more modern turntables will actually have the pre-amp built in.
This receiver has poor audio specs relative to others recently sold here.
Full-range 80 Watts into 8 Ohms at 0.7% distortion reflects an underpowered IC amplifier.
Compare this to the Onkyo HT-RC560 that was offered here a while back, which had 95W per Channel into 8 Ohms, 20 Hz–20 kHz, 0.08% THD – much, MUCH better specs.
Today’s receiver is likely about half the useful power of that one, and will struggle to deliver undistorted sound at home theater volume levels.