I have two of these. They are ridiculously good. I don’t know how “upconverting” works, but the picture quality from this box is great on a big-screen HDTV. If you’re playing a non-BluRay disc, this will give a MUCH better picture than a BluRay player, for example.
I have a old CD player with better specs.
Frequency response: 30-20000 Hz
Why not 20-20,000?
Signal to noise ratio: > 90 dB
Why not 100db?
Distortion and Noise (1kHz): > 65 dB
Crosstalk (1kHz): > 70 dB
Dynamic Range (1kHz): > 80 dB
Why not 100db?
Sound System: Dolby Digital
because its 19.99… and woot is making a profit off that.
Seriously, dude, did you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning, or what?
I have this as well. It’s possible to region unlock them fairly simply. Just google for it.
Why not trot out the specs to your old reel-to-reel tape deck?
Because this is a DVD player. It’s kinda different.
Unless you’re blind. In which case, I apologize.
And spec-heads never know what the hell their talking about. Compare it to a dvd player. yutz.
Why? He’s not reading this.
I have this player. Serious POS. When it works it does a wonderful job of upconverting. The key is “when.” There is something seriously wrong with the operating software/firmware. Sometimes it refuses to recognize commands from the remote (and, yes, the batteries are new). But worse is that it will sometimes decide to turn all of the colors in the output bright orange and purple. This is using the HDMI output into a new 3D ready TV. The only way to fix it is to unplug the device and wait a few seconds for it to reboot.
lol i’m betting s/he doesn’t know what those specs mean…90dB SNR is partially a function of the power level at which the device was rated, so “why not 100” doesn’t mean anything. Plus, 90dB SNR is pretty much identical to 100dB, unless you’re a cyborg.
A long time ago I got that 47" Phillips LCD tv, so this will be a nice partner to that with the EasyLink technology. Plus it will be replacing an old DVD player from Walmart that I got for $29.99 back in the day.
SO, in case it wasn’t clear enough, I’m in for ONE.
Only $25 Shipping incl’d
Actually, “30-20,000 Hz” or “20-20,000 Hz” is not a frequency RESPONSE, it’s a frequency RANGE.
In order for it to be the spec for response, it needs to include “+/- X dB” where X is some hopefully small number like perhaps 1 or 3; i.e. “+/- 3 dB”. That tells you how much the output level deviates from a reference level (usually measured at 1 kHz) over the specified frequency range.
Without any +/- figures, you could state about any frequencies you wanted… those frequency RANGE specs are a bogus figure published by manufacturers to make the unit look impressive without actually telling you anything useful about the performance.
I’m a recording engineer, I knew what these specs mean when I was in 9th grade so I guess you would loss that bet.