THat’s PSSUB 225 we do not make a PSSUB250
You can click on the edit link below your post and edit it to correct the info.
Thank you. Always something new to learn.
I got the Baby Boomer in the last sale and am very happy. Bought a house a few years back with in-ceiling speakers which sound decent but certainly lack any kind of bass response. Not wanting to put a giant sub in the corner of my family room I had been contemplating the Baby Boomer for some time mainly for it’s size.
What a nice sub it turned out to be. I’m still working on placement but in my 17’x19’x9.6’ room it’s plenty loud. In fact it’s much louder than it needs to be. It is actually a better made and sounding speaker than the in-ceilings it is paired with (which now allows me to upgrade those). It looks great and the size allows it to be unobtrusive. I was able to stuck it near a couch so when sitting down no one can see it. The more I keep tweaking placement and volume the more it is coming into it’s own. Really happy with the purchase.
Ultra Critical Critique time:
The only two negatives I can give is that 1) It’s boomy. Don’t take the word “boomer” at anything but face value. That makes it far less musical than I would have liked and will eventually cause me to turn it down lower than I would like. 2) It can easily overdrive itself into a boomy sloppy mess. But, like all subs, it comes into it’s own at proper volume and placement so 2 shouldn’t really be a drawback unless you are truly looking to bring the roof down. You’ll end up making your system sound terrible before the roof cares.
Would I buy it again? Yes, absolutely. It’s a great little sub and it’s doing pretty much exactly what I’ve asked it to do which is sit out of sight and fill in the parts the in-ceilings have no business attempting. Some more time with the SPL and REQ and we’ll have a very nice little set-up.
You are welcome and thank you too. I believe the Baby Boomer has a phase switch. It will allow you to reverse the pahse (polarity) of the subwoofers and that cuts down on any boominess or over extension of the cones. In a large room like what you have, the room acoustics are probably quite “LIVE”, as opposed to dull. The phase adjust may be exactly the prescription for the best setting in your room.
Also, best to set the volume lower on the subwoofer, and increase the volume through the audio receiver instead. That keeps the woofers more controlled. Confirming BABY BOOMER does have the phase adjust switch.
Much to like here, would buy Pinnacles in a heartbeat vs. the overhyped wonders.
Regarding soundbars vs. regular speakers, look carefully at frequency response. The soundbar’s tiny little speakers limit the physics here. A quick comparison of the soundbar vs. the discrete center channel speaker shows a difference in low end of 125 Hz vs. 75 Hz.
Now that may not sound like a lot, but remember that the purpose of the center speaker is to carry the main voice channel. The deep end of male human voices goes down to 85 Hz, so if you want the most accurate imaging, you want a center channel at least that low.
Another limitation of sound bars when used for front left/center/right is simply how wide they are. You’re not going to get the level of stereo separation from a sound bar that you can get from discrete speakers.
Remember that, for best imaging, speakers should be mounted (or aimed) at the ear level of listeners. You can put them in/on the ceiling, but again imaging is going to suffer. It’s also helpful to use speakers with matched drivers around your 5 channels.
You guys changed build specs at some point on the subwoofer. I bought two of the PS 225’s, one a few months ago and one a few weeks ago. The newer one doesn’t have an adjustable crossover or a phase switch. Volume knob only. Also the signal cable that came with the unit was DOA. That was easy enough to replace, but you might want to look at your supplier for those.
All the newer AV receivers have an internal setting for the sub out crossover point, so the removal of that feature from the sub box is not a problem. I did find that two subs worked a lot better than one in my installation, which is a pretty large room.
Regarding the TWR-1050, it’s a nice speaker but the 4 inch “woofers” can’t bridge the gap to the subwoofer. If you set them to “small” they leave a dip in the bass response and if you set them to “large”, they can’t handle the lower bass frequencies at higher volume levels. Again this is a large room. In a smaller room I think they would be fine. Or with custom equalization, which is really the proper way to set up a 7 speaker three amp system anyway. I ended up using them as rear speakers instead of front speakers. They make great rear speakers.
I am in need of rear surround speakers and would be interested in the SFIT LCR 250s. I will need to wall mount them in my movie room. What brand/model of pivot bracket would you suggest? My current solution is my old pioneer floor speakers from 1986 sitting on TV trays.
Hi, the rear of SFITLCR 250 has several wall mount options for you. On the product is a custom made KEYHOLE bracket mount that allows you to mount the speakers onto a screw either Horizontally or vertically. ALSO, we include a 1/4"-20 threaded insert on the rear of the SFITLCR 250 to accept an after market bracket. Omni-Mount has several good brackets that fit a 1/4"-20 threaded insert. Omni-mount has exceedingly conservative weight limits, so if they say the bracket can hold 10 pounds, that is a very conservative rating.
The photo on WOOT showing the rear of SFITLCR 250 shows the hardware for keyhole mounting and the threaded insert is behind the screww you see on the middle rear of the box. Removing that screw expose the threaded insert for after market wall brackets.
Good morning Woot Community. Arin with Pinnacle Speakers Team Leader to assist with any questions you may have. I will be checking into the forum periodically during the day to assist.
I purchased the Front Row system with sub the first time it came up last year. It is definitely an improvement over the speakers on the Sony LED TV we have. However, after moving and it not being used for awhile, the optical connection does not seem to be working correctly. The auxillary jack works, but not the optical connection. Anyone else have this issue and know a solution?
Please try another cable and if that does not work drop me an
e-mail @ firstname.lastname@example.org.
A few sales ago, you broke down the specifics of the 11500+ and 9500+ bundles. I know you normally don’t make a habit of that, so I emailed it to myself. My computer was “upgraded” and I don’t have that reference anymore, and I can’t seem to find it after searching in the last 6 or so Woot! sales. I know the main difference listed in the specs area, and I can see the pinnacle website - but your description had details those places didn’t. Can you either post those again, or send me a private message with that info? thanks!
Thank you for my new center channel.
Hi Vanevanhoven, I remember you!
Here you go:
4 BD 100 Front and Rear Channle
1 BD 200 Center Channle
1 DIG SUB 100 10" Powered SUbwoofer
50’ Monster cable 14 gauge
3 BD 200 (1 center, 2 front left/right
2 BD 100 Rear
1 PSSUB 225
50’ 14 gauge Monster cable
If your receiver allows it try setting the Mains to Small and set the receiver’s high pass filter frequency for the Mains to ~50 Hz. That should protect the woofers from really low bass and leave no hole between towers & sub.
Could the 9500+ come with a POWERED SUBWOOFER: (1) 10", 125 Watt Front Firing Sub, or is the Woot! promotion special and configured with the dig100?
Good catch. I stand corrected. ACSUB 125 is powered subwoofer in the MB 9500+.
not trying to correct! I was just confused - which is increasingly becoming easier.
Another convert joined after listening to the speakers at the house - this sale I picked up the 11500+ sale for them… the $400 price on that is the belle of the ball, and there are a lot of belles there. Thanks again, Arin (and Mickey) for the prompt answers.