Powermate 3,000-Watt Portable Generator
Shipping Options: $5 Standard
Shipping Estimates: Ships in 3-5 business days (Thursday, Mar 06 to Tuesday, Mar 11) + transit
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Check out this very handy FAQ
Don’t forget, safety first!
Rated Watts: 3,000 watts/3,750 surge watts
Engine: 212cc OHV
Fuel Tank: 4-gallon
Run Time: 11 hours @ 50% load
Dimensions: 23.25" L x 19" W x 18" H
Weight: 94 pounds
Horsepower: 8 HP
Operational Volume: 74 dB
Fuel Tank Consumption: 0.33 gallons/hr
$239? From where?
I was looking at reviews for this on Amazon when I found this 4,000 watt generator with better reviews at a cheaper price $329.99:
Specs for that one are 4000 Watt Surge/3300 watt continuous. This one is 3,750 surge/3,000 watts continuous. It’s also not cheaper, and don’t think it’s worth the $50 difference, do you?
This one here fits the mo’ better bill:
If this is your first time purchase the two most important factors are:
How much power do you need.
How much can you pick up.
This unit will weigh about 120lbs with fuel. As someone who owns a bunch of equipment and is in pretty good shape lifting over a hundred lbs is sometimes a big task. I mention this because there will be lots of: for only x$$ more you can get a bigger unit.
And never store with gas in the carb.
I know it is early, but how is $329 cheaper than $279?
A couple of things to consider when buying a generator are noise levels and quality of the power produced. For emergency power during a power outage, either of these may be negligible, but if you want it for general use, then either could be a show stopper. For the quality of power issue, even Powermates FAQ suggests that this may not produce clean enough power for electronic devices. It should be fine for running space heaters and lights, but likely not good for powering laptops, phone chargers, etc. A good generator for these requirements can easily run more than $2000 Like the Honda E3000IS.
My buddy Larry lives in North Hollywood on Radford, NEAR the In-and-Out Burger, which is on Camrose.
Shut the f*#k up Donny!
Anyone have one? How much noise, will they run me out of a camp site if I use it?
What about if the computer is running off of surge protectors? Or UPS?
IRDK how well surge protectors do for low-level spikes, since (I think) they’re primarily designed to stop lightning hits. And I know they tend to stop surges sacrificially - the more they block, the less lifespan they have, until they stop protecting.
I have some “generator newbie” questions. I’m interested in a unit for home use in case of power outages.
My primary concern is always my fridge and deep freezer (so I don’t lose a lot of expensive meat if I lose power in the summer). Is this a good choice for that combo of appliances? Can you help give me a sense of what else I can power in addition to that? A space heater in the winter? A bunch of fans in the summer? A window AC unit in the summer?
Someone mentioned it might not be “clean” enough power for electronics. If I tried it, would it hurt my electronics or just give me bumpy usage? Would running them through a surge protector protect them? Seems like charging an item (cell or laptop) would be more tolerant of choppy power…is this true?
We have a cable ISP. If the cable line hasn’t also snapped somewhere, is it possible to power the cable router from a generator and stay online? (In addition to the general power question in #2.)
I’ve read it’s important not to store gasoline in the unit…correct? Is it easy to drain back out?
The decibel rating on this model is 77Db at 3/4 load. You may want to check with the campsite(s) or camp grounds that you go to for the allowed generator decibel ratings for that park.
Anything with a motor will run well enough, though fridge/HVAC compressors and most fans are frequency dependent as well as voltage, and regulation of both are worse on a generator than line supply. Fans won’t be much affected by the possibility of overspeeding, but compressors can have issues with damage due to overpressure if the generator runs above proper speed. A freezer with a simple electromechanical thermostat will be OK, and the electronic thermostats in many fridge/freezers that operate electric diverter valves in the air supply may not be as tolerant.
Overspeed can occur if you have a heavy load, like a heater that’s cycling due to a thermostat, unloading the generator which doesn’t react quickly enough.
I wanted to find what output I could get from the 240V socket, a nice/unusual feature for this class of generator. Only manual and parts list are for a 0103007, looks like the same unit but with wheels.
Looks like you need to pull a fuel line to drain the tank…
You are out of your element!
- My primary concern is always my fridge and deep freezer (so I don’t lose a lot of expensive meat if I lose power in the summer). Is this a good choice for that combo of appliances? Can you help give me a sense of what else I can power in addition to that? A space heater in the winter? A bunch of fans in the summer? A window AC unit in the summer?
The first thing you want to do prior to purchasing a generator is to determine what items you want to operate with it, and you have already done that. Now the second step is to figure the running wattage of each item and the start up or “surge wattage” as well. Item(s) with electric motor(s) will have a startup wattage demand that is higher than the running wattage by 2.5 to 5 times. To figure running wattage multiply volts x amps = running watts. All of this information will be located on the products data plate. For example (not actual for your product) a refrigerator, the data plate says 120 volts and the amps are 6. 120x6=720 watts x 2.5(surge) 1800 watts on start up.
- Someone mentioned it might not be “clean” enough power for electronics. If I tried it, would it hurt my electronics or just give me bumpy usage? Would running them through a surge protector protect them? Seems like charging an item (cell or laptop) would be more tolerant of choppy power…is this true?
A power line conditioner is a very good idea to use when you are powering solid state equipment from a generator. A recommended company for a power line conditioner is TSI Power Corp. You can visit their website www.tsipower.com
or you may call TSI Power at 1 800 874 3160.
Their website should help explain the purpose and function of their power line conditioner.
- We have a cable ISP. If the cable line hasn’t also snapped somewhere, is it possible to power the cable router from a generator and stay online? (In addition to the general power question in #2.)
Yes, but the use of a power line conditioner would be a very good idea. If you are renting a router you may want to check with the company that is providing it to you and see what rules may apply to the use of standby power with their router.
- I’ve read it’s important not to store gasoline in the unit…correct? Is it easy to drain back out?
You should always treat the fuel prior to filling the fuel tank with a product called Sta-bil. http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/ First remove the load from the generator panel, making sure nothing is being powered from the generator. Then shut the fuel valve off. You may now start the generator. The engine will run until the fuel between the tank shut off valve and carburetor has been depleted. However you will still have a trace of fuel in the very bottom of the carburetor bowl. It’s a very good practice to operate the generator every month or two for about 5 minutes to keep the engine in tip top running shape.