having just bought the black and decker 20 volt lithium ion drill a few months ago I am certain of one thing. I will never buy another black and decker drill again. the lb. per sq in output is a joke.
I am trying to find a one shot battery charger for my father’s boat motor battery. He has a solar charger on the battery but sometimes it doesn’t work, so he gets all the way to the lake to use the boat and the battery is dead. Any suggestions? Anyone?
So based on today’s write-up I guess I am implored to respond and I do so with pride and dignity but I have to do it with a question. I do love motorcycles and ride a Harley. Yes on the great music and I’m an old school rocker but as far as my legendary chest I’m not sure not sure if he is referring to my “chest” or to the awesome Craftsman Tool Chest we sold on Woot a few months ago. It rocked and sold out early in the day. So which is it?
Now, as far as a battery charger goes, normally I would tell you if we are going to sell one sometime soon but walking around the office with my chest exposed got me put on double secret probation. I don’t want to cause any more trouble but if you were able to see me right now you would see me winking with my left eye, pulling on my right ear and giving you a slight poke in the ribs with my elbow. Is that a hint? You decide.
Best to all,
Robert - AKA BVonnSnobby
This is a classic goof made by folks looking to drive fasteners that require a lot of torque - they use a drill and expect that higher voltage equates to more torque.
If what you want to do is sink long deck screws or seat lag bolts into a wood post then what you need is an impact driver and NOT a drill. A drill is geared for higher RPM, which is what generates power to cut into something; an impact driver is geared for low RPM and the anvil and hammer inside the drive (what causes the vibration) blows up the torque numbers and allows even my 10.8v Hitachi impact driver to sink a 3" deck screw all the way to the head.
Here’s a tip - if you are driving in these kind of fasteners, stay away from the common philips or flat-head flavors; instead consider using a square head driver bit, which will stand up to much higher torque without stripping.
My advice at this point is to go back to wherever you got the B&D drill and look for a matching B&D impact driver that uses the same battery (at least this way you can swap batteries between the tools). Once you start using an impact driver to do this kind of work instead of a drill you will wonder what the heck you ever did without one.
Cheers - Jon651
Hint?! What hint! I didn’t hear any hints?!
Oh . . .and the answer to your question . . .we implore because of both the tool chest AND yours!
thanks I did look up a hitachi impact driver and its power is impressive. however even the hitachi drill puts out 460-inch-pounds of torque. enormously better than my black and deckers 100 and something.
So it is possible for a drill to have torque, black and decker just wants me to buy more tools to get something done instead of providing one that does several tasks.
Anybody know if the Skill Belt Sander I just bought on Woot comes with any sanding belts? All the description says is that the purchase contains one belt sander.
Can anyone help me understand the difference between a line level and a rotary laser. I was on a job site the other day and a carpenter pulled out a line level (the bosch one) and the superintendent claimed it was inaccurate and you have to use a laser level for taking levelness measurements. But I don’t get how that is possible.
Ok, here goes…
As a general rule, portable laser levels come in two flavors - self-leveling (typically rotary) and manually leveled (typically line). At this point the difference should be apparent in the name.
Rotary self-leveling levels are set up in the middle of a room, adjusted to the height you desire, then will seek their own level while projecting a laser line completely around the perimeter of the room. Other than the height, it requires no adjustment to the laser line and will be consistent all the way around the room.
A line level projects a single laser line straight out from the device and typically requires the user to set the level-ness of the line. Usually there is a built-in bubble level on the device. The main problem is the farther you get from the device along the laser line, the more error can creep in - if you set the level just a tiny, tiny amount off based on the built-in bubble level, you can still be off by several inches (or even several feet) when you get 50 or 100 feet down the line. These devices are typically good for hanging pictures on the wall in your living room or use in smaller areas but not much else.
And since line levels only project a single line, you have to repeat the process for each wall all the way around the room and hope you are accurate enough when you get back around to your starting point.
It does bear mentioning at this point that you can find cheap rotary levels that rely on a built-in bubble level and are not self-leveling. These will be less accurate, but in the end you are getting what you pay for so caveat emptor. In addition you can find line levels that are self-leveling as well, but you will be completely dependent on the accuracy of the self-leveling mechanism.
Hope that helps - Jon651
I bought both of the Hitachi 12V sets in previous, separate offerings. They have been great for my light-duty work at home and replaced older, heavier corded tools. I don’t have heavy duty needs, but I’d buy them again.
My impact driver set didn’t come with the second battery as advertised on the site and even the product box, but Woot customer service issued me a partial refund with enough to get one. Thanks!
One other thing regarding the Hitachi drill/driver and rotary tool kit. The drill and rotary tool come in a single set and the specs might be a bit misleading. The picture is accurate for what I received. It came with two “kits” packaged separately. One kit had the two tools, one soft nylon case, one charger, two batteries, and the two small plastic baggies of accessories. The other kit was the 200 piece rotary tool accessory kit.
The specs seem to imply that you might get three batteries, two chargers, and two cases with the kit, which is not my experience. Again, the picture was accurate.
It helped me, so thank you.
another cosmic question unanswered.