The labels on the pictures don’t match the product description for many of these cords. In at least one case the label pictured doesn’t seem to match the cord in the picture or the product description.
Thanks for pointing that out. Descriptions are correct, we’re swapping out photos now.
What’s the difference between a 10/3 and a 14/3 cable? I would think one would be able to carry more current, but they both have the same capacity rating.
Where did you see they have the same “Capacity”? Capacity is usually used for capacitance (or ability to hold or retain charge) which you hope an extension cord doesn’t. If you are talking about voltage, they are all 110-120V capable. The 14/3 and 10/3 cables are different in that the 14 or 10 refers to the gauge with lower gauge being a thicker wire, and 3 referring to pos/neg/ground (or three wires insulated). You would be correct if you said that the 10Gauge would allow lower resistance, and thus since V=IR (well in ac currents this is not quite true, but lets use DC just for the equations simiplicity), you would expect with constant voltage less resistance means ability to take higher current draw (I = amperage), which may be necessary for high draw appliances (motors, heating coils etc). In terms of over all electricity “capacity” you might be talking about flux through the cables… They would be the same. area of the cables cross sections changes the vector magnitude of electrons through the wire, but the total flux is still the same.
If you have a high-amperage power tool, it will typically include a chart in the manual telling you what extension cords are acceptable. Realize that a shorter cord can be thinner due to electrical impedance being a function of length (so to run, for example, a circular saw on a 100 foot cord might require 12 or 10 ga but for a 25 foot cord 16 or 14 would be acceptable). Hope this helps.
Ok Captain Pedantic. It’s in the description. If you look at both the 25ft 10/3 lighted and 25ft 14/3 lighted tri-tap, they both say:
Random technical questions - is there a strain relief on the end of any of these?
Are any GFCI?
What is the diameter of the cords?
What would the bend radius be for these cords?
Yeah, buddy, every single one of these cables says it’s rated for 15A (the description says “capacity”, meaning that is the amount of current they are able to carry…duh), but that doesn’t really make sense, since a thicker cable of the same length should be able to carry more current. So, that’s why I asked what the difference was between the different cable sizes. Could it be that the description isn’t quite correct, in that respect? I would like a cable that will work with a tool that pulls 20 amps. Seemingly, none of these will work, but it might be that the descriptions aren’t quite correct.
It’s probably because the electrical cord end connectors are only rated 15 amps. With the proper connectors on the properly rated circuit these should have no difficulty pulling 20 amps. Especially the 10/3 25 ft.
It’s so cute when people try to explain things they don’t actually understand.
By code, 10 gauge can carry 30A depending on length, however it is probably like lroller said, the connector isn’t rated for more than 15A.
Also, most outlets and house wiring aren’t rated for more than 15A anyway.
Seriously, lets over complicate the question. The standard plug/outlet NEMA 5-15 is only rated for 15A, therefore the capacity is 15A. However depending on how much current your tool is actually pulling, will affect the voltage drop across the cable. If you’re pulling 1A across a 14/3 cable with a resistance of 1ohm (numbers made up for simplicity, if you really care southwire has resistance tables) you will drop 1V, meaning the voltage at the end of the cord will be 1V less than at the plug. If you are running 15A, then you will drop 15V, which may be an issue for motors. So, if your house voltage is 110V at the plug, and you drop 15V, the tool will see 95V which may burn out the motor.
Also, Capacity only means capacitance if talking about capacitors.
W.r.t. the deal. I’ve been to one of the Southwire plant numerous times. Highest quality control I’ve seen in a cable plant.
Which one is ideal for using with a generator to bring the power into my house?
So what you’re saying is that the 10/3 won’t lose as much voltage over the length of the cable as the 14/3, right? And that is the benefit of the thicker gauge, even though the connectors are rated for the same current…
A “thicker”, “fatter”, lower gauge cable creates less resistance/heat and less power dissipation than a “skinnier”, higher gauge cable. I always use the most workable, lower gauge cable I can obtain for a job. The ones I use most often are the ones I’ve made. You won’t find them generally for sale. They’re wicked heavy, flexible and will outlast me.
Where and when will you begin selling these? That’s what I wanna spend my money on!