The specs are deceptive. This is not a 2000 watt generator. It will only do 1600 watts continuous service. 2000 is the surge capacity.
True, but every generator is advertised this way. And if you read the full description this is clearly explained.
Great generator for a great price. I’ve had one for almost a decade. Never had any problems getting it to start. Quiet. Fuel efficient. Easy to maintain. Runs a fridge, lights, wifi and TV with no problems. A little heavy. Doesn’t come with oil. SAE 30 weight is good for most operating temperatures.
I’d recommend getting the magnetic Dipstick. Available on Amazon for $10.
Remember, get a generator before you need it, cause once you do, it’ll be too late. We’ve already had one nasty hurricane this year and there could be more to come.
And it wouldn’t be a generator sale at Woot, if someone didn’t post that comment.
I have been wanting to get a generator for a long time, but don’t feel like I know enough about any of it…
Please do not blast me for asking these questions:
Do you run it outside and have extension cords coming into the house?
Are there any issues starting or it running if it is freezing outside?
“Produces clean power to safely operate…”
No such thing as “clean” power when you’re burning gasoline. That is false advertising.
Yes, you have to run it outside, as it is burning gasoline and emitting carbon monoxide. I don’t own one, but I’m sure it should be fine during the winter. Keep in mind that it’s only a one gallon tank, so if you need to use it for an extended period of time, have plenty of gasoline available.
“Clean power” doesn’t refer to pollution here. It’s about the amount of distortion in the sine waves produced by the generator. Some generator’s produce a less “clean” sine wave, which can actually damage what you plug into it. Especially electronics like laptops.
Yes, you have to run it outside - it’s a gas engine so it needs ventilation and it emits carbon monoxide.
Most likely you will have to run extension cords into the house. If your main electrical panel has a dedicated adapter, you can plug the generator right into it and then your indoor plugs will work (but make sure not to try and power the whole house with this generator - switch off the circuits you don’t absolutely need).
Shouldn’t be any problems in the cold. If you can start a car, you can probably run this generator.
These “suitcase” style portable inverter generators are a great tool to have for both that Just-In-Case scenario as well as for recreation such as camping or even if you are only remote as the far end of your back yard. The “inverter” type gens provide power as close enough to what you would get from your utility company to safely run computers and flat-screen TVs (things I would never try to run off of a standard portable gen for fear of damaging them).
While this is an older model and limited to 1600-watts running/2000-watts surge, you could power a residential refrigerator if your house loses power, or even run a standard microwave oven if you needed to (but not both at the same time). I own the WEN 56235i and love it. I can also second the suggestion that if you get this gen (or any other like it) that you also invest in the magnetic dipstick available on the Mothership for around $10.
These gens only provide 110 volt plugs, but if you need RV-style (220 volt) plugs (but ONLY for an RV!) you can purchase a parallel kit and link two together. Here’s an example:
The newer models for more money may be lighter or provide more power or even have a built-in CO monitor, but very few if any will be this inexpensive. In fact, this model sold directly from WEN with free shipping (which is usually the cheapest place to get their products) is currently $431.71, so this Woot is a great deal. Here is the site:
Good job Woot - but if I didn’t already own one this could possibly convince me to take the plunge!
The obligatory, don’t prematurely kill your fridge, etc… when using a generator, comment:
When powering motor-based appliances (fridge, freezer, AC, dehumidifier, power tools, etc…) use the heaviest (thickest) gauge extension cord you can reasonably find. That typically means at least 12 gauge (lower gauge number = thicker wire). No 14 or 16 gauge cords. Error on the heavy/thick side.
And use an extension cord of the appropriate length. That is, keep the cord as short as safely possible. (However, a generator should not be operated next to an open window or in a garage, even with the door cracked open.)
Why? Long thin wire causes voltage drop. Motors generally do not like running on low voltage. They try to do the same work with that lower voltage and as a result, overheat. If your fridge doesn’t die this time as a result of low voltage, potentially it could die years earlier than if it had been properly powered.
Sams Club and Costco often carry 12 gauge extension cords at decent prices.
I have a older version of this model and yes you run it outside and run the extension cord inside to your refrigerator or non electric hot water heater. I also found that if you get one of those foam wrappers that are meant to go around hot water pipes that makes a good gasket to put around your door where you’re running the cord so you can keep the door closed even though there’s a cord running through it.
Vote for shirts in the derby!
We need 1500 votes this week for $10 shirts!
(Please Note: I’m not employed by Woot, but I volunteer to help in the forums. AND I NEED ALL THE $10 SHIRTS)
Aren’t moderators tasked with reducing, rather than increasing spam in the comments?
Now go vote or I’m gonna follow you around all day. Just kidding. Sorta.
It’s a good derby lol, it deserves the attention.
Are you trying to generate support for the derby? What kinda thread do you think this is?!
It’s one with people in it. That’s about my only requirement.
Did you see the black cat in the leaves?
It was dark out.
Was its name Russell?
There’s a pumpkin scraping its feet into a mug of pumpkin spice. Does that line up with your interests a little better?