WEN Gas Generators - Your Choice of Wattage

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WEN Gas Generators - Your Choice of Wattage
Price: $259.99 - 699.99
Shipping Options: $5 Standard
Shipping Estimates: Ships in 5-7 business days
Condition: New

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Previous Similar Sales (May not be exact model)
4/8/2014 - $289.99 - 699.9 - 38 comment(s)
12/6/2013 - $259.99-719.99 - 66 comment(s)

Check out the product page for the 56352 , 56682, 56475, 56400 and the 56877

Home Depot has some good reviews for the 9000W and 3500W

So at the top description says generators are not carb compliant, but the description on 4750 generator says it is carb compliant. Which is the error?

All of the generators shown here are a good quality generator. I own the 9,000 watt and have found a great respect for that generator. I ran it during the Sandy encounter and ran it straight for 8 days until power was restored. In the meantime, this generator allowed me and my family to live with all the comforts of home during the outage.

The smaller generators do the very same thing that the larger 9,000 watt will do but scaled down a bit depending on the size or output of the generator you decide to buy. Even the smallest generator here will keep a fridge and freezer going as well as a TV and a bunch of lights. Believe me when I tell you, there is nothing as comforting as a generator when you need it.

Finally, one of the things you may want to do after you get your generator is to convert it to run on 3 fuels. I did this with mine and now it runs on natural gas. I no longer need to wait on long gas lines or store gasoline during a power outage. When I need to run the generator I just push my "quick connect line into my home’s gas supply and I’m good to go. As I said, converting the generator to run on either propane, natural gas or gasoline is quite easy to do and will cost you less than $200 for a complete kit. Once the conversion is done, your generator will run on either of the 3 fuels.

where do you get the conversion kit???

You can buy it on line at several locations. Try www.uscarburator.com They will send you everything you need to make the conversion…I mean everything. They will also provide you with complete instruction and invite you to telephone if you need some help. You may also go to U-tube and search for 3 fuel conversion for generators.

Forgot to mention…

If your home has natural gas already piped in, and you convert your generator to operate on natural gas, you will happily find that the cost of gas over gasoline is one third. That’s a big savings.

CARB is an useless government job by previous governor as a favor to hire some of his supporters buddies. During a black out, do you think Californians would worry about carb compliance?

On the main page, there is a link to Carb Compliant gens. They are the ones with CA in the model name. They have three
56352-CA - 3500 Watts
56400-CA - 4050 Watts
56877-CA - 9000 Watts.

http://tools.woot.com/offers/wen-carb-compliant-generators-your-choice

Hi! I have some questions.

Can the 9000 be set up to switch to it from your main box? (by an electrician.)

How much gas would it use in a 3 day outage, with minimal usage?

Would it be better to switch it to propane and use 20lb tanks, since you can get those during an outage? How many tanks would it use during a 3 day outage (again with minimal usage).

Thanks for any help. No idea about any of this stuff, but live in S. Florida and figure we’ll need it eventually.

How much less power do you get on natural gas, or propane versus the original gasoline?

Did you run yours through the panel in your house, or a string of cords to your loads?

They do not list the output on the 240 volt plug; I am guessing that it is 30 amps. You would have to run a total load of less than 7200, so you have to limit your uses. An electrician can certainly set it up on the panel, but to do it right requires a transfer switch, which is also a secondary panel, and not that cheap.

There is a cheaters way to wire up a male range or dryer plug on the NEMA cord off the biggest outlet. However it is not by code, and you really need the electrician to teach you how to utilize this method. You must know what you are doing to prevent damage to the genset, or even to a utility employee if you inadverantly back feed. You really must know the procedure, if yo do not think you could do this - do NOT do the cheater method. If you ARE capable, it is a way to make life a little more manageable in a difficult outage.

Assuming your minimal usage is 50% load, you are up to 52 gallons of gasoline over 72 hours. Now you know that the power company is not all that expensive after all…

The best thing you could do is get a diesel unit and store it in drums. Diesel fuel does not go stale over time. But the diesels are not that cheap, there was a decent unit on Ebay for about $1400, and it was smaller than these big ones.

Thanks for the answers.

More questions.

If you were just powering a light, tv, cable box, modem and fridge, which one of these would you need to buy?

Are they hard to empty the gas out of and preparing it to sit unused, once you are done using it? (for a person with zero knowledge in this area.)

The smallest one will suffice.

Do yourself a favor, and find a station that sells 100% gasoline. Do not run E10 in a small engine. The rubber parts and carburetor cannot take it. The alcohol will ruin them.

I rebuild lots of small engine carbs for folks thanks to E10.

Honestly, what I do for my generator, is run Sta-Bil in 100% gasoline, and just start it every 6 months and run it for 5 min. or so. I only leave a gallon or so in it.

It’s not a big hassle to drain; you will need a pair of pliers and screwdriver to loosen the fuel line from the carb. and run the fuel into a gas can - but it’s more of a hassle than it’s worth - you will splash gasoline around, and smell like it for a half hour…

In other words, I don’t drain mine… I haven’t found it necessary yet. 100% gas does not “sour” nearly as quickly as E10 does; especially with Sta-Bil. I haven’t found any of the advertised E10 treatments to be effective, either.

Buy it, leave a little quality, stabilized fuel in it, crank it twice a year, and be happy…

Ok, I know nothing about these and very little about electricity in general. What I’m wondering is if I can plug the welder I just purchased in to one of these, and which would be the better choice if that was the main purpose of the generator.

The welder I purchased is 220 (but I noticed all of these say 120 or 240, thus the question):

http://tools.woot.com/offers/inverter-plasma-cutter

What he said about pure Gas. I have a 7 KW gas powered generator I bought in 1999 (remember Y2K) Didn’t need it until 2005…But we had an Ice storm and I lost power for 5 days…Was very happy I had it.

I would recommend a Manual Transfer switch…It makes it so much easier and my wife can deploy the generator…safely. Extension cords are a tripping hassle, and backfeeding the generator through your power panel can be tricky (and really dangerous) if you do not know what you are doing…sort of like deep frying a turkey in your garage.

Since I seldom use it. I empty as much gas out of it I can and then RUN IT DRY. after it Runs dry and the engine dies, I restart it with the choke on until its COMPLETELY empty. Then I Open the gas cap look down to where the fuel pickup is, and use a rag to soak up the last tablespoonful of fuel.

I have never had a problem during the yearly test, when I checked it.

Also. I keep a 5 Gallon container fuel of gas around (when you need it you need it) with STABIL in it. Yearly I empty the 5 Gallon container into the truck, and refill it with fresh gas (and put more STABIL into it.) So the only cost is the STABIL.

Where would you find 100% gas? I have not seen a single place that sells that anymore.

With the 3500/3000 what all can I power with it? Can it power the fridge, some lights, TV, internet modem, fans and computer or is that too much?

in edit: Around here (middle TN) the farmer’s co-ops have E-0; also there are a few “independent” gas stations with it. There is a website (google ethanol-free gas) that maintained a list but it was not always 100% accurate. It commands a premium but cents-per- mile in my wife’s 1998 pathfinder and mother’s 2006 Escalade is cheaper due to the better fuel economy (around 10-12%).

CFL bulbs are rated at very few watts each (like 13 W for a 40 W Equivalent) The power factor is crap so VA (volt amperes) is more of a concern. But you can run a dozen or so (300 VA), your tower PC (300 VA), modem / router (50 VA max?) a half-horespower fan (500 VA). You’re at 1150 VA. My 46" Toshiba LED has never been over 150 VA even on a white screen according to my Kill-a-Watt. That’s 1300. That leaves 1700 VA for the fridge, which is nearly 15 amps ( 15 A x 120 V = 1800 VA). I believe that’s plenty. I replaced a water valve on my fridge recently but didn’t notice the nameplate and amp draw… if you can see that on your fridge, multiply it out by 120 V and you’ll be good to go.

I am working in volt-amps and not watts because that is worst case. At perfect power factor, watts = VA. Less than that, VA is higher. The breaker will trip on VA, the engine (prime mover) will deliver watts. The 3000 W unit will trip its breaker at 12.5 A continuous - so we add up VA of your loads because everything we’re discussing is less than perfect power factor.

Without getting too confusing, if you had 3000 watts of CFL bulbs running at 50% power factor, this generator will not supply them. The engine will; it’ll happily dump out 3000 watts of rotational energy - but the breaker in the generator won’t, because it will be trying to deliver 6000 VA of electrical energy, or 25 A. (25 A x 240 V = 6000 VA).