Yamaha TSR-7850R 7.2-Channel Network AV Receiver


Yamaha TSR-7850R 7.2-Channel Network AV Receiver

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I have two Yamaha TSR-7810s–one from Woot and one from a certain auction site. My only complaint with them is the limited Bluetooth range. Hopefully that’s improved with this model.

I got one of these a few weeks ago and I LOVE IT. I connected it to my PC with an optical audio link, and it gives me studio quality sound. It’s got a connector for everything from phono to games. The Spotify link via wifi is excellent to have too. Itty bitty smart speakers just aren’t enough. It’s honestly overpowered for what I use it for now, but that gives me room to grow.
Get you one!

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Costco appears to be a pretty reliable feeder of these units back to Yamaha —-> WOOT!

You know the Costco - have to walk by it to get to the food you actually came for - mentality.

“Honey, oh look, that’s a pretty nice AVR, we need a new AVR, don’t we?”

Get home to face the reality the current 10 year old AVR still works… back to Costco goes the Yamaha.

Yamaha’s loss is your deal-gain!

Can you use both the bluetooth and speaker output at the same time. I’d like a system that can be used with someone with a bluetooth enabled hearing aid and others using speakers.

This is why I still have my old crappola one

I know that the headphone output and bluetooth work at the same time so don’t see why speakers wouldn’t.

Dolby-latest-whatever makes scratchy noises on the low end, and video pass-through at today’s resolutions don’t work on my 6040. But since we cut the cable and the computer’s the only thing connected now – 15yo AVR still works…

The awesome thing about this unit is the fact it has 2 HDMI OUTS…most receivers in this range only have 1 so if you have a tv on the patio or garage you can broadcast the big game to both without a separate cable box. If you don’t mind a refurb this is a great deal as this unit is on “SALE” at the big C for $429 at the moment. Also for anyone thinking about a sony just don’t…I got a DN1080 and the HDMI’s went out just barely after a year…they don’t make them like they used to.

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Bought the TSR-7810R back in Nov. Bought the TSR-7850R a couple weeks ago, just bought another. Love them both. One thing I love that my Pioneer’s wouldn’t do is pass through video while listening to music source. The airplay (wifi) and Bluetooth work great! Also use the IOS app a lot and can control more than one receiver with it. App very well designed IMO.

Can anyone advise a good sub to pair with this receiver?

Thanks!

Monolith 10" THX sub, $500 shipped
or
Hsu VTF-2 (12" sub), about $600 shipped (sometimes on sale for maybe $30-40 less)
or
Rythmik LV12-F (12" sub), $600 shipped

For HT remember not to cheap out on the sub, and don’t buy pricey towers you don’t even need. The center does most of the work so make sure you get a good one, the other speakers don’t have to be anything special.

It’s a darn shame Woot! doesn’t sell these any more. At $429 it was the best thing I’ve ever purchased from this site.

Having a real subwoofer makes all the difference. Don’t get one of those cheap $200 ones.

Where do you get a HDMI cable long enough to reach from your garage/patio to your living room? Don’t you have an incredible signal loss?

Mine arrived and I’ve been pulling apart my old avr set up and setting this one up tonight and trying to troubleshoot. It came with a quick start guide but no manual so I’ve just been going through it online for help to no avail.
I can’t seem to get a signal when I connect a 4k firestick but it works in the TV’s port and I’m not getting any signal on the component input either which also works in TV. I’ll retry again and check if a regular firestick works but it’s supposed to be 4k passthrough so… Anyway if anyone has a suggestion that might help I’d appreciate it.

Hi there. Here’s the manual


This thread said it required a high quality HDMI cable.

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Thanks Thunderthighs, that was the problem with the Firestick, the cord would pass 1080 from the cable box but not 4k. I switched it out with one from another box and it works fine now.
The component only works with 480i (or 576i PAL) and the picture quality is meh compared to the Sony it replaced and I’m having issues with getting a video signal from another device but that’s not a deal breaker since I can run the video straight to the TV. I think component inputs are largely secondary considerations today anyway and that they’re no longer allowing HD signals via them neuters them even more, but i still use them occasionally.

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