You mean “rise,” not “rinse,” right?
The AT-900-13 is a paltry ten bucks more at Home depot.
Not saying this Tankless Unit is all wet, but checked “ELECTRIC” Tankless Water Heaters to find they can’t even get EnergyStar rating. Reputable builder sites say to conserve energy, install GAS models ONLY! That’s what I found out by doing a search about “ELECTRIC” models. Hopes this helps.
Holy Kilowatt Batman! I would need the 13000w unit for my area on Long Island. We have the highest electric rates in the country at 10.78 cents per kilowatt hour. It would cost a small fortune to make hot water and make that electric meter spin so fast, you can cut wood with it!
Recent Power Supply Charges. And for the next three years '15, '16, '17, rates are increasing 4.5% each year
Feb 1, 2015------10.3749
Jan 1, 2015------10.5116
Dec 1, 2014------10.7017
Nov 1, 2014------9.3492
Oct 1, 2014------7.3690
Aug 1, 2014------6.7817
Jul 1, 2014------8.5026
Jun 1, 2014------8.5234
May 1, 2014------10.6081
Apr 1, 2014------10.4352
Mar 1, 2014------12.3067
Feb 1, 2014------11.5934
Jan 1, 2014------10.9107
Feel your Pain bro! Texas has also a 10.9 cent electric rates…
so yeah no go for me!
If that is your electric rate it is one of the lowest in the country… not highest.
The lowest in the country is just under 9 cents per KWH. The highest is right around 20 cents per KWH (not including Hawaii).
Not so fast. Sure, it’s a power hog, but it is only heating water when you are using water. So if you wash your hands - it might run for a minute. Even taking a shower it is only going to run for a short period. Compare that with heating 40 gallons of water in a tank and keeping it hot 24-7 even if you aren’t using any.
This isn’t intended for a whole house anyway - it’s more for a remote bathroom, a garage, or similar. Sometimes they call them ‘point-of-use’ hot water heaters.
Exactly right. If you don’t have gas, you’re using electricity already to heat your BIG (40 or 50 gallon) water heater already. The point of one of these is to drop under a sink that you usually have to run hot water for several minutes to get any warm water out of it because it’s such a long run from the garage to the sink.
I installed a similar unit under my kitchen sink years ago, but it’s not tankless - it’s a 1.5g and it does a great job of providing instant hot water, great for just rinsing off a few dishes before they go into the dishwasher. I can fill the sink with 100F+ water for washing without having to waste 10 gallons waiting for the tap to run warm. This tankless would probably be more efficient because like any tankless, it’s not constantly heating water - it only heats it while flowing - when you’re using it.
But, notice that all but the lowest model # are 240V - these are probably going to require a special 2-phase power drop and dedicated circuit. The 110V model MIGHT be ok if you’ve got a 30+ Amp breaker where you’re going to install it. Many newer kitchens have 40A breakers, but if you’re running this while the dishwasher is going and it’s using a lot of power, you might trip it.
If those are US rates then I’m not gonna complain about mine ever again. Here in the Caribbean our Residential rates are tiered from 4 to 6 cents US per kWH (depending on usage) while Commercial rates are around 7 cents.
For clarification, there is no 2-phase power, and I don’t think that’s what you meant to say. You’re referring to single phase 3-wire. In other words, 2 hot wires and a ground. It is important to differentiate so that people don’t read your post and go “2-phase…? I don’t think we have that, so I don’t think we’ll be able to use this device.” Single phase 3 wire is the standard setup in places of residence.
Not sure what you mean by “power drop” unless you’re talking about the running of wires of the proper size and type for this 220 volt circuit from the circuit breaker panel to the device.
Where is the cordless model ? I need one for camping.
“Many newer kitchens have 40 Amp breakers.” Well if they do they are certainly not going to be on 120vac circuits. They will be dedicated 240Vac circuits powering a single appliance. All permanently installed 120Vac appliances such as dishwashers and disposals have had to have their own circuits for many years. If you put on of these in, plan on having to run a new circuit.
Yeah, this deal sucks. I’m just browsing woot these days to laugh at what Amazon has turned this site into.
Seconded many times
Yeah, 40-amp is rather odd for use in a kitchen, anyway. Standard range breaker is 50 or 60-amp.
This is true unless you’re in Mexico. A single 40-amp single pole breaker delivering power to an entire kitchen on 14 gauge wire, or any other unsafe and completely ridiculous configuration is not unheard of down there. Take it from someone who deals with such customers within an hour or so from the border.
I love the under the case view they posted with this listing. It would be awesome to see more of that from other products.
I had one in my cart - but for the extra $4 I’ll get it from my local Home Depot. Used to be that the tax savings would be enough push to buy, but Amazon settled that.
Most complaints I’ve seen on these are on 110V units, and those that thought the smallest units would feed a shower in Maine in January…
C’mon woot - knock off another $10 and make me buy!
Am I the only person who finds it odd that the table shows the model 10 needing 6 gauge wire, and the model 13, on the same voltage and 25% higher amperage, needing 8 gauge (i.e., smaller) wire? I smell a typo.