Both have reverse per the manuals linked below.
One of the big reasons you want a fan that is outdoor is the blade construction. If it is outdoors and not climate controlled the blades will start to sag over time from the moisture in the air. Like This
To answer some previous questions:
The fans have three speeds. They might be called low, medium, high, but they are actually “Is it really on”, “that seems pretty good”, and “quick grab the curtains before they blow out the door again”.
Yes they reverse - the switch is on the side of the lower housing (near where the light kit installs).
Yes you can install it flush to the ceiling… well “close” is probably more accurate. It comes with a ball mount that is probably about 8" long and also has a different mounting option where it is rigid. I’d day that leaves maybe 4" - 5" between the top of the fan and the ceiling? Not home right now so I can’t measure, but it does give you increased headroom. I used the close mount option in the bedroom, and had to buy a 18" downrod for the one mounted in my foyer. Both installations were easy and quick.
Yes the fanblades do reverse. One side is dark, one side is light. Should work with all wood styles in the typical home.
Yes you can install it without a light kit if you so desire. The light kit is pre-installed, but if you remove it there is an included cover that will hide the wiring so it isn’t mandatory to use the lights.
I should also note the glass globes click into position with spring clips - no little screws to tighten. The blades slide in and click as well… again no screws. They are a bit optimistic with the “five minute” thing, but they are much easier to faster to install then a traditional unit.
I can’t comment on the CFMs of the fan, but they move some air without being so loud. I never use my fans on the fastest speed anyway so clearly the CFM movement is less important to me than simply moving the air to make the home more comfortable. YMMV.
The expandable mounts are a pain unless there is no ceiling yet.
I have also installed many, many fans, and my wife created an idea that makes it safe. We were doing fans where the box was not much, and there were capped gas pipes in our way too.
First, I find where the floor joist is exactly above the plaster. Next take out the beauty ring that covers the bracket, and trace the perimeter it on a scrap piece of 2x8.
Cut the 2x8 on the line, and in my gas pipe case I locate the pipe on the board, and the location of the joist. Use a hole saw and cut the board to accommodate the pipe or just your wires, it will not be a perfect doughnut. Sand the outer edges of the new bracket you just built. You can also paint the sanded edges now with some ceiling paint.
Pre-drill screw holes and use some 1/4"x5" lag screws and washers to screw your new bracket to the joist, pulling your wires through the hole. Now you can mount your fan bracket to the doughnut. It is even better if you can use some 4" drywall screws through the bracket and in line with the joist.
Yes, the NEC will frown on no conduit, so if you really want, you can use a small piece, but making proper taped connections should work.
I am certain the manufacturer’s bracket will fail before the doughnut, and it looks fine even being slightly visible.
Little bit of work, but I have no worry of a fan falling on my tenants.
We have both Home Depot (Hampton Bay) and Hunter fans.
**Hampton Bay = cheap, unbalanced, noisy, wobbly
Hunter = solid, quiet, well balanced**
The price difference is trivial when you think about how many years you’ll live with them.
But the middle-line and above Hunter’s are also worth the extra $ vs. entry level Hunters.
A key point if you run your fans a lot: look at the energy consumption of the fans. They vary a lot, even from the same company.
If you want really high performance and money is available go with the amazing Big Ass Fans. (no kidding on that brand name)
oh, Tools & Garden and Home Improvement. I would have thought home improvement would be under something like say, the “Home” tab.
I could not find the minimum installed distance from the ceiling to fan bottom (without light kit) measurement. We have clearance issues and they cannot project more than 11-12 inches down from the ceiling.
The manuals posted by woot seem to be generic.
These small 44 inch fans seem perfect otherwise.
@schep999, if I understand your installation method accurately, while your structural solution is clever, the electrical portion sounds not only against code, but dangerous.
All permanent electrical fixtures must be installed with a properly rated electrical box behind them and the romex electrical cable securely fastened to a framing member inside the ceiling leading to that box.
Loose wires behind a fixture can lead to shorts and fires.
Similarly as you and others have pointed out, hanging ceiling fan from a plastic light fixture box that was not designed for the weight and vibration of a ceiling fan invites disaster. Who wants a spinning 15-30 pound fan to fall on your child or pet?
From what I can find it’s an E12 socket / B10 shape bulb.
The candelabra style gave me pause too, but there are enough LED and CFL options for E12/B10 that I’ll go for it.
Can this be used outdoors in an enclosed porch that is not climate controled?
It appears to be no but there have not been any replies on this question…
Yes, pull chains to which you attach a string (provided in the kit) are used to activate the light and a separate one is used to activate the fan function.
Yes, and on new work I have to eat a $35 arc fault breaker. Square D and Generous Electric write the NEC so they can keep selling newer, expensive equipment. I have to look at how many wires and temperature ratings now too.
When elected officials write bad law, eventually the Supreme Court is supposed to fix it. There is no mechanism for the NEC.
As I said - secure taped connections - should work. If you really are concerned you can get a box cover with a clamp for the existing box and use a 4" piece of BX cable. I hope that satisfies people terrified of electric.
Dead tenants are really bad for marketing and insurance rates too. If I thought it was “dangerous” I would not do it.
Or should we all pay for electricians that are paying for licenses and local permits and inspections? Or should we just recognize it’s just a damn fan?
Seems the Hunter fans we have in our house are lifetime warranty. Well, that is if I can find the receipts from 15 years ago.
i have this from the vendor!!
@schep999, I’m not an electrician, have no vested interest in the industry, but do have experience with fixtures simply screwed to the wall. We had a circuit that kept blowing for unknown reasons. When I pulled one of the fixtures I found no box behind the fixture and a wire half pulled out of the wire nut.
The code requirement for boxes anytime a wiring connection is made goes back at least 50 years for good reason - it has nothing to do with enriching manufacturers.
BTW, I do happen to agree standards written by the industry (or safety-nut government bureaucrats) are very often really stupid and a waste of money. But not in this case.
I replied to a similar question on this page. Biggest concern is that the boards will warp if there is moisture in the air. “Enclosed porch” can vary quite a bit, from an unheated room that is full finished, to netting/screen around a traditional porch. These are MDF, which will warp with excessive moisture.
Excellent! Thank you. Checking with the color-coordination staff in our house to see whether we can do this without white…
Thanks for trying to reason with him,
but from reading his original post & then his reply to you, I don’t think you will succeed.
I can remember reading a news story in the 1980’s in Massachusetts where a land lord installed all the outlets in a rental unit in plaster rings (no boxes) screwed to the studs.
He thought it would be ok too.
It wasn’t.
After the fire, the guy lost everything he had,
and the young female tenant lost more than that. 
The NEC is a very good thing, and those that do disagree,
there are forms that can be completed & sent in to add their own input to the process of writing the Electrical code.
I will just say, many very intelligent electrical scholars, tradesmen, and inspectors are involved in creating and revising this body of work,
so anyone who does wish to amend any of it should have a similar working knowledge of the subject.
I’ve had one in my porch for years now and it still works fine. While it will not give you any feeling of air conditioning, it does move air around thus making you feel cooler.
I’ve have used & re-purposed indoor fans for outdoor humid Florida lanai use.
What’s the secret? Use clear spray to paint the blades first. My current mdf fan blades have not sagged 3 years later.