Atmor 24kW / 240V Tankless Water Heater
Shipping Options:: $5 Standard
Shipping Estimates: Ships in 1-2 business days (Thursday, Dec 14 to Friday, Dec 15) + transit
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Are there requirements for the type of water line? line dimensions or copper vs plastic??
Pay close attention to the “Choosing the right tankless heater…” paragraph on the product front page.
Tankless heaters have pluses and minuses but ignoring that paragraph will assure disappointment.
It might be inferred, but to be fully transparent, the word electric should be used twice in that sentence:
- Save up to 50% on electric bills compared to a traditional electric tank water heater*
In most locations with natural gas available, it is far less expensive for heating water - whether tank or tankless style.
Assuming the proper adapters are used to connect to the water supply and output lines, the heater should not care whether the lines are copper or “plastic”.
Pay more attention to the electric power supply requirements and whether the performance specs meet your needs.
This is very important:
“Perfect for moderate to warm climates, the 24Kw/240V, 4.6 gpm capacity is ideal for small to medium sized homes that will be running up to 4 applications at once, such as: 2 showers (1.5 gpm/shower head), 1 kitchen sink (1 gpm), and 1 bathroom sink (.5 gpm) at inlet temperatures of 73 degrees F.”
According to Atmor’s own map, even the southernmost states don’t have 73 degree inlet temperatures year round…
The price appears to be attractive - $249 vs $300+ at Amazon and Home Depot.
Very handy reference/educational info at the Home Depot page:
Inlet temperature of 73 degrees is ridiculous. Never get it from well water, and city water, who knows? Is this for if you live on the equator?
I was going to point this out also…basically, if you live in Hawaii, this would be perfect, except that you can’t get it shipped to Hawaii…
It requires 3 - 40 amp circuits.
Looks like it requires a 3 pole breaker. Homes do not have a 3 phase service
Not a 3 pole breaker, it requires 3 dual-pole 40A 240V breakers. Although you could probably put in a 100A dual-pole breaker and run #3 copper (assuming the lugs inside accept a #3).
You can probably daisy chain 2 of these together in cold climates. Gonna need some serious power though!
Our shop tried these types of units as a test. Besides having exorbitant electrical requirements some homes cannot cope with them without upgrading the service and load centers. We had reports of pressure switches and thermal limiting failures, boiling water out of the system instantaneously, to melting elements periodically.
Great concept except for the reality of it.
Tankless units in general not only this brand.
Yes. It will probably have a decent temp rise if only one tap is open, but each additional tap would lower the temperature.
100 amps? “Green Acres 2017”
“Up to 50% savings.” That “up to” will get you every time but a realistic 3-8% is “up to.”
I’ve used electric tankless heaters before and gotten the crap shocked out of me. I would never want to use one again. Tankless natural gas would be safe, but electric and water don’t go together.
Master electrician here…
I want to make sure everyone understands just how small this unit is. It’s a TON of energy for maybe one or two taps (faucets, showerheads, washers, etc). If you buy one of these, please buy the correct size for your installation, which most likely, is a larger size than this. Other users are correct that there’s a high chance that you will need professional electrical service work to run the correct size wire to the unit, or to possibly even upgrade the entire panel or service in your house. Condo and apartments may even be completely out of luck. I would HIGHLY recommend researching a more general chart on how to calculate what you need. The incoming tap water temperature listed here seems very high compared to reality IMHO and this leads to a lower temperature rise required, which makes you think you don’t need a larger device (you most likely do). Following our normal charts for tankless water heater installation, in the deep south, I would only install this for one shower to support 2gpm for year-round operation. That’s about it. Turn on the kitchen faucet on the same pipe and the shower temperature may very well decrease while 24kw of power runs through your walls (that’s the power equivalent to 200 100w old-school incandescent light bulbs all in one wireway/device). If you want to heat more than just one or one-and-a-half water taps, buy a larger model.
As always though, YMMV.
What home has a spare 100 watts available in the main service besides the need for 6 slots in the main breaker box? Unless your just now designing a home I doubt anyone has either of those requirements and it will cost at least $2,000 to $4,000 to upgrade existing homes.