There may be no better place on earth to grow Petite Sirah than Diamond Ridge Vineyards.
First of all, in the Rhone Valley, its birthplace where it is known as Duriff (after the breeder who crossed Syrah against Peloursin), the grape is considered a scourge upon the earth. Peloursin is a tight-clustered mountain grape with a thin skin and a lot of fruity aromas. In a humid spot like the Rhone, sour rot gets started invisibly inside the cluster, where the vinegar bacteria go on to spoil the wine, from which it is often spread around the winery, turning everything to vinegarized stuck fermentations (vin picqué). It’s a disaster, so the grape is roundly despised in its region of origin.
California is a paradise for Petite Sirah because of its dry air, though in areas like the Russian River it can be a dicey proposition, especially in the cool, wet years of recent memory. Botrytis may not go all the way to sour rot, but the laccase enzyme it produces attacks color.
That’s a particular problem for Petite Sirah because its massive tannins are softened if there’s lots of color, and otherwise come off as oppressive.
The high UV in Lake County’s clean air at 2200 feet not only prevents rot, but stimulates intense color and rich aroma production. The Red Hills Petites are like ink. The problem is that the bright sun tends to burn off aromas, so the wines are beautiful to look at but lack fruit.
Diamond Ridge is located on a peninsula jutting out into the southeast corner of Clear Lake. A lake effect plunges the temperature down each afternoon to 60F or less. The result is no raising and no aroma loss. The character here combines rich blueberry fruit with a floral overlay of lavender.
Finally, Petite Sirah can be brutish and simple. But the volcanic soils at DRV impart an energetic minerality similar to that imparted by limestone in Burgundy or by schist in Port. The local droughty herbs also lend a hint of sage to the nose.
The tannins still need some taming which I accomplish with micro-oxygenation, leading to a stable refined tannin that permits early drinkability but also ensures a very long aging trajectory.
The combination of all these factors results in a stunningly massive yet feminine, be good for twenty years at least in a good cellar, but is perfectly drinkable now.