WEN Sliding Compound Miter Saw
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I have the non-compound WEN saw and it works very well. If I had to do it again, I’d go with this one… mine fell shy of cutting 4" wide floorboards – the compound would have handled it with ease.
Got one of these last time out and worth every dime! Performed flawlessly on a kitchen job…accurate and fast!
Can this handle 4x4 posts? What would be a potential downside to this saw? I’ve wanted to pick up one of these for awhile now…
In for one, after dithering on this for previous offers. Had a cheap non-slider that got stolen a couple of years ago and haven’t replaced it. Gotta have a compound saw. Projects!
So, 4x4 posts are 4 inches nominal, meaning in reality that the dimensions are 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches. I’m not speaking from personal experience here, but since it lists that the max cutting capacity of the compound saw is 3.25 inches thick and 11.5 inches deep, you probably wont be able to do a full 3.5 inch cut on the depth.
Not sure though.
What would the main differences be between this model and a less expensive model like the 70711?
I’ve got a very old hand-me-down (non-sliding) miter saw that I would like to replace. I just use it for cutting floor boards and trim pieces, but if I get a nice one I could start experimenting with bigger projects.
Presumably you’re not looking for the end of the post to be a finished edge, that will show in your woodworking project? If you’re cutting posts because you’re putting up a decorative fence, you’ll be fine. It might not cut all the way through, but you can flip the post and finish from another side. So perhaps not a completely smooth cut unless you line the 2nd cut up exactly, but if the end will be buried in the ground or covered by a cap, who cares? Best thing about a slider is you can cut wider boards. With a regular compound you’d have to flip a 10" board over to cut all the way across at 90 degrees. With the slider, no problem! The slider will be heavier than a regular compound, but if portability is not your #1 issue, no worries. I don’t think WEN is a top choice for contractors, but for basic homeowner projects I don’t think you can go wrong at this price.
Accuracy and stiffness(to stay accurate through the cut) or lack of it would be the likely downside. Having said that, most of the time a high level of accuracy simply isn’t needed. A few examples of tasks where high a high level of accuracy(and stiffness to stay accurate through the cut) is needed: hardwood handrails, stain grade miters especially in thicker stock, miters around a piece of work (like a picture frame).
however this saw (once you replace the blade) should be fine for most things like paint grade trim, flooring, yes 4x4 lumber or any other framing lumber. The capacity is usually right around 3.5" tall and 11 or 12 wide.
4x4s since you asked are 3.5" most all 10" sliding saws can cut them in one pass but one or two on the market (Hitachi) can’t quite do it. I don’t know the capacity of this saw but I would gamble that it can, most can
I have the 12 inch version of this that I got from amazon. Works great. I mounted it to the dewalt stand and completed a deck, and refinished my basement. Did a great job with the trim, decking, and studs.
What blade would you recommend? What’s wrong with the one that comes with it?
I’m in the market for a dual bevel, but this single is going to be hard not to bite on with the price.
I can’t decide if I should go with this one because it does not have a laser guide. Anybody knows how reliable laser guides are anyway?
Bought this back in December…just finished a nice work bench/miter bench using this saw (http://ext.homedepot.com/community/blog/diy-miter-saw-bench/).
Works great on 2x4 and 2x6. Havent tried a 4x4, but I am thinking it should chop it, no problem.
This is not commercial grade, but certainly a great buy for home improvment/DIY.
In general, saws typically come with budget general purpose blades.
If you are just cutting 2x’s, then it will be ok. If you want to cut them a little quicker, you might want to step up to a quality blade, generally with fewer teeth.
If you are doing fine precision cuts, cuts for furniture, etc., then you will probably want a blade with more teeth. They produce a nicer cut, but you generally have to cut through the wood slower, as the teeth can load up quickly with sawdust.
Higher-quality blades will produce nicer cuts quicker, and tend to last longer. I prefer Freud blades - they are expensive, but cut like butter, with little to no vibration. They can also be sent back to the mfr for sharpening.